ReviewThe Sweet (he)Art Of Timekeeping: Presenting Bovet’s Miss Audrey Timepieces With Sugary Dials

While mastery of complications is what most brands go after, in order to cement their place as worthy proponents of haute horlogerie practices; it’s the decorative arts which require equal, and, sometimes even more dexterity when it comes to making a watch outstanding—at least on the surface. There are few maisons in the Swiss horology industry that have truly mastered this art as it comes with years of experience, and only a handful of artisans are certified to execute timepieces with engraved cases and movements, or the ones replete with exquisitely enamelled dials and miniature paintings. Amongst them are Bovet with their illustrious history spanning 200 years—recognised for their ostentatious watches that are crafted using all traditional decorative techniques, which have stood the test of time. So whether it’s ornate cases, or gorgeous dials with motifs such as—wild poppies, butterflies, birds, fish—elements representing nature, Bovet have left no stone unturned when it comes to creating timekeepers with magnificent dials. One can only imagine and marvel at the process because here the watch dial is the blank canvas, and while it’s probably easier to paint a larger canvas, when the space provided is barely between 36mm and 39mm, the task at hand becomes even tougher! While we have seen them execute these resplendent dials to perfection, Bovet’s latest offerings come as a sweet surprise for horophiles. The brand have introduced new models to the Miss Audrey series—a part of their Fleurier collection, which is a contemporary tribute to the pocket watches of yore, with the brand’s signature crown-and-bow-at-12 o’clock case structure. And here, the dials are made of sugar crystals. Yes, you heard us right! Aptly named Miss Audrey Sweet Art, this new series introduced last year, comprises timepieces with dials that offer an intriguing mix of texture and sparkle, unlike any other dial ever produced in the watchmaking industry. This process gives a rich gradient finish to the watch face, available in four delightful combinations of: pink and gold; black and blue; black and green; and grey and blue. Let’s take a closer look at these ‘sweet’ offerings.

Bovet's Miss Audrey Sweet Art series comprises timepieces with dials that offer an intriguing mix of texture and sparkle, unlike any other dial ever produced in the industry

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The Miss Audrey Sweet Art timepieces are testimony to Bovet's spirit of innovation while dabbling in age-old techniques, as they experiment with sugar crystals for these unique offerings

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This version comes in a black and green gradient dial that looks different each time it catches light at different angles

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Your Choice, Your Way: The Signature Case

In 2010, Bovet introduced the patented Amadéo convertible case, which allows the wearer to transform their timepiece in a reversible wristwatch, table clock and pocket watch or a pendant watch—all without the help of any tools. It took seven years to develop the Fleurier Amadéo case with this unique mechanism that requires only a few simple adjustments to convert the watch into the timepiece of your choice. For converting it to a wristwatch or a pocket watch for the wrist, one has to simply press an invisible push-piece that releases the upper then lower strands of the bracelet. By inverting the direction of the two strands, the user can display the front or back of the watch on their wrist. For displaying it like a table clock, the rear bezel pivots on an invisible hinge at six o’clock, becoming a stand used to support the clock on a table. And for a pocket or pendant watch display, one simply has to string a chain across the bow at 12 o’clock position, and voila! The Miss Audrey timepiece also features the same case, and was also the winner of the Ladies’ Watch category at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020 edition (the watchmaking Oscars), and has ever since captured the hearts of collectors all across the globe.

The Miss Audrey series—a part of Bovet's Fleurier collection, is a contemporary tribute to the pocket watches of yore, with the brand’s signature crown-and-bow-at-12 o’clock case structure

Featured here is the Bovet Miss Audrey Sweet Art grey and blue gradient version

The timepiece features the Amadéo case, which allows the wearer to transform their timepiece in a reversible wristwatch, table clock, and pocket watch or a pendant watch

For displaying it like a table clock, the rear bezel pivots on an invisible hinge at six o’clock, becoming a stand used to support the clock on a table

Introduced in 2010, the Fleurier Amadéo case is a unique mechanism that requires only a few simple adjustments to convert the watch into the timepiece of your choice

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The Miss Audrey Sweet Art watches feature the Amadéo cases crafted in stainless steel, measuring 36mm in diameter and topped by a bezel set with 103 round-cut diamonds, with the crown and strap bolts set with sapphire cabochons. They offer a water resistance of up to 30m.

The Sweet Spot: Sugar-Coated Dials

The dial or the face of the watch is the first thing that strikes an onlooker, and is often linked to the first impression of a timepiece, before one gets into other details. And Bovet are masters of exquisitely-crafted dials that are handmade at the manufacture, and are naturally inspired by the movements’ structure. The simple or complicated functions determine the location of the hands, apertures, counters, and other indicators. The maison also uses a wide array of materials such as metal, aventurine, carbon fibre, mother-of-pearl, and rare materials such as meteorite for giving their timepieces unique faces. And of course, they are not devoid of decorative finishes. The brand employs a wide range of techniques such as engraving, guilloche, gem-setting, enamelling or lacquer decoration, and colour treatments to create outstanding dials.

Bovet Fleurier

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In the case of Miss Audrey watches launched in 2020, the green version had an ornate guilloche pattern, which imparted depth to the dial as well as looked rich in every sense. There was also a blue version with an aventurine dial, which paid tribute to the celestial world with its exotic appeal. However, the new Sweet Art watches are a different ball game altogether, and surpass the codes and conventions of traditional fine watchmaking. They actually use pure sugar crystals in various colour combinations—a unique take on women’s watches that are not just eye-catching but are powered by solid mechanics at their core. A tough act to replicate, this process uses miniature painting with sugar crystals, in different colours such as purple, blue, black, grey, green, pink, yellow—all set in a pattern to impart a gradient finish to the dials. The watch faces have deliberately been kept clutter-free to showcase the beauty of this art in all its glory, and the only other elements visible are the heart-shaped serpentine hands that complement the case structure and symmetry.

The idea behind the sugar-coated dials was to capture a child’s carefree and innocent desire for confectionary items

Representing sweetness and purity, the sugar crystals covering the dials represent a breakthrough in engineering innovation, materials, and miniature painting

The heart-shaped watch hands also add a romantic touch to these timepieces, since they meet to form a beautiful heart, once every hour

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Sweet Dreams Are Made Of This: The Creation

The idea behind the sugar-coated dials was fairly simple. A brainchild of Pascal Raffy, owner of House of Bovet, the Miss Audrey Sweet Art takes this edible material and transforms it with the goal of capturing a child’s carefree and innocent desire for confectionary items. Representing sweetness and purity, the sugar crystals covering the dial of the Miss Audrey Sweet Art represent a breakthrough in engineering innovation, materials, and miniature painting—hallmarks that define the brand.

The process of producing this dial is fairly complex, and Bovet have only touched upon the surface while explaining this technique, so as not to spill the beans on their trade secret. First, the pure sugar crystals are prepared so their structure and chemical composition will not change when exposed to light or heat (the process also ensures that the sugar crystals don’t melt). Then the crystals are chosen according to size, combined with special paints and hand-applied to the dial by one of Bovet’s miniature painting artisans. This painstaking process is protected by a patent, and leaves no margin for error. If the artisan loses focus and even makes one small mistake, he/she will have to start from scratch again. And since all the dials are handmade, they are one-of-a-kind, where no two dials will ever look the same. The heart-shaped watch hands also add a romantic touch to these timepieces, since they form a beautiful heart once every hour, reminding the wearers of the loved ones in their lives. Bovet had also created a Miss Audrey Sweet Fairy piece for the Only Watch Auction in 2021, which featured a hand-painted fairy at the centre of the dial, filled with Super-LumiNova, covered with a protective lacquer, securing the art for eternity. The watch featured a yellow dial backdrop and strap, representing the colours of the Only Watch theme for last year. Powering this poetic timekeeper is an automatic movement beating at 28,800vph, supplying an energy reserve of at least 42 hours.

Bovet had also created a Miss Audrey Sweet Fairy piece for the Only Watch Auction in 2021

The unique timepiece featured a hand-painted fairy at the centre of the dial, filled with Super-LumiNova, covered with a protective lacquer for securing the art for eternity

The watch featured a yellow dial backdrop and strap, representing the colours of the Only Watch theme for last year

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The Miss Audrey Sweet Art range is an ode to the romantic notion of timekeeping; enough to keep track of the elapsed hours and minutes, while getting completely absorbed in admiring the artistic skills employed to create these delightful offerings in pop colours. Though vibrant in nature, they perfectly balance elements of minimalism along with the bling factor to make for befitting wrist companions for the modern-day woman.