ReviewThe Grand Functionality Of Bovet’s Resplendent Fleurier Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two Limited Edition

There are grand-complication watches, which present combinations of several complications—including prestigious minute repeaters and tourbillons. And then there are grand watches, which present a handful of the most useful complications, with absolute grandeur. The Bovet Fleurier Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two would fall into the category of the latter. Sure, it includes the prestigious tourbillon—a flying one at that—but it also includes two of the most practical complications you could think of as far as mechanical timekeeping goes. One is a power reserve indicator and the other is the big date—both rather common complications, but definitely not commonly presented here. In fact, they showcase the high-performance of the calibre that runs this watch, along with the utmost convenience in usage. And then comes the grandeur part. Each element is resplendent in appearance owing to a very carefully considered approach to the design, decoration and finishing. Not that these are exceptional traits for the likes of Bovet, who are known to leave no stone unturned, and no element undecorated. In fact, this might just be the ‘most Bovet’ watch you could probably come across.

The ‘Most Bovet’ Watch You Could Find

With roots in crafting highly decorative timepieces for royalty in the Far East, Bovet’s founding family built the house of Bovet to excel in the various artisanal crafts such as engraving, enamelling and miniature painting. It was under the present management that the maison also honed their watchmaking savoir faire, with manufacturing facilities that have given them control over innovation and production and quality and seemingly everything that matters in fine watchmaking. The contemporary offerings of Bovet rest on these origins and the strong foundation. Each timepiece presents a baffling level of detailing, but it’s the Fleurier collection that best represents the history of Bovet. It was the intricate detailing of their original pocket watches that set the ball rolling for this brand, and those timepieces have been the essential source material for this collection. The Fleurier watches are known for their singular lugs, with a bow on the upper one, which frames the time-setting crown at 12 o’clock—a defining trait of pocket watches. On the other hand, the Dimier collection is a more modern, with a conventional silhouette, but featuring a distinctive inclination in the convex glass from 12 to six. This also means that the case is thicker on the upper part, as it gradually slims towards the lower end. And this feature is interestingly seen in the silhouette of the Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two as well, which makes it kind of a hybrid of the two pillars of the brand.

Read the origin story of Bovet

As seen in Bovet's Dimier collection, this watch from the Fleurier collection features a distinctive inclination in the convex glass from 12 to six, with a sliming of the case as well, towards the lower end. This makes the Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two kind of a hybrid of the two pillars of the brand

The Decoration And Depth Of The Display

The links to the past and those representing Bovet’s DNA don’t end there. It turns out that even elements such as the exposed bridges of the movement seen on the dial side, and through the caseback view are heavily inspired by the brand’s historic pocket watches, with chamfering and polishing that those used to have. The concentric Côtes de Genève, radially appearing to emerge from the tourbillon cage, give the whole movement a very pleasing look, while the tourbillon cage itself is intricately decorated with two elegant arms over the flying tourbillon that are smoothly rounded and polished for a mirror-like finish. A lot of these components are made from steel, but for the bridge of the tourbillon cage, titanium has been used, in order to help reduce the weight, and to take advantage of its lower magnetism than steel, which helps in preventing any ambient magnetic charge compromising its accuracy. There is also a seconds pointer on the tourbillon cage, with a 60-second track that pronounces its 60-second rotation, making it a more obvious seconds display. This may or may not have been required, but it could be seen as quite useful for some.

The exposed bridges of the movement seen even through the caseback view are heavily inspired by the brand’s historic pocket watches, with chamfering and polishing that those used to have

The concentric Côtes de Genève, radially appearing to emerge from the tourbillon cage, give the whole movement a very pleasing look

All these elements are put together in a way that lends the timepiece dimensional appeal, which is heightened by the convex glass on the inclined 44mm case in 18-karat red gold—complemented by the classically-designed central timekeeping hands. Raised above all the elements of the otherwise open-worked dial, except for the hands, are two sub-dials in aventurine glass, enhancing the depth in the display. And it’s here that the timepiece’s two biggest achievements can be seen.

All the elements are put together in a way that lends the timepiece dimensional appeal, which is heightened by the convex glass on the inclined 44mm case in 18-karat red gold

Raised above all the elements of the otherwise open-worked dial, except for the hands, are two sub-dials in aventurine glass, enhancing the depth in the display

The High-Performance Functions

On the right-hand sub-dial is the big date—a rendition of a basic date feature that not too many watchmakers offer, as it’s rather hard to master. Here’s it’s done quite perfectly, as the large date’s units and tens discs can’t be seen at all despite the open-worked nature of the watch. It’s also a highly useful feature—to have such a large date on the watch, yet not one that distracts you from the rest of its beauty. The biggest highlight of this date feature though is how it’s adjusted. You don’t have to pull out the crown halfway or in any way. You simply need use a pusher that’s integrated into the time-setting crown at 12 o’clock. This should certainly be a handy feature to have at the end of February, April, June, September and November! And then on the left-hand sub-dial is the power reserve display—a massive 10 days, and provided by a single barrel at that.

The Grand Calibre Of A Grand Watch

The two-sided flying tourbillon, seen at six o’clock, is patented. Its construction ensures balance on either side of its axis, which helps reduce friction significantly and enhances its longevity

Moreover, with a hairspring designed specifically for this calibre and the artisanal finishing—using traditional methods—further help improve the chronometric performance of the movement

Despite the extremely long mainspring in the barrel that helps provide the massive power reserve, the winding system in the movement ensures that you don’t have to keep at it for ages. This is owing to its multi-gear three-dimensional teeth on one of its pinions, which have received two patents. Even the two-sided flying tourbillon, seen at six o’clock, is patented. Its construction ensures balance on either side of its axis, which helps reduce friction significantly and enhances its longevity, hence minimising the need for regular servicing. Moreover, with a hairspring designed specifically for this calibre and the artisanal finishing—using traditional methods—further help improve the chronometric performance of the movement—the Bovet manual-winding calibre 17BM06-GD, with a balance wheel oscillation of 18,000vph.

The Virtuoso VIII Chapter Two is definitely a grand watch in so many ways, as it represents the best of Bovet’s watchmaking values, while offering two very useful and practical complications. And as a limited edition of just 39 pieces, this Virtuoso just feels that much grander

Now that’s certainly a lot to pack into a watch that’s isn’t a grand-complication piece. But it definitely is grand in so many ways, as it represents the best of Bovet’s watchmaking values, while offering two very useful and practical complications. And as a limited edition of just 39 pieces, this Virtuoso just feels that much grander!