ReviewBovet’s Sepia-Toned Beauty: The Reversible Fleurier Virtuoso V in Red Gold
From a patented reversible and convertible case structure, and an exciting dial colour to a unique combination of complications, the Bovet Fleurier Virtuoso V is an impressive piece of horology. Here's why
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Despite the quartz crisis of the 1970s and the more recent influx of smartwatches, the Swiss watch industry has primarily survived due to its dedication to traditional watchmaking. Among many other brands that follow this philosophy, Bovet are one of them. The maison have committed themselves to creating timepieces with an old-world charm, and exquisite grandeur. How do they do so? They achieve traditional horological brilliance by combining an aesthetic that harks back to the old days, and including advanced watchmaking complications. Apart from being the first watch manufacturer to create watches with transparent cases, the Maison has also been focused on creating traditional yet modern pieces of horology since its inception. The Bovet Fleurier Virtuoso V is a part of that evolution and creative strategy.
Virtuoso: The Convertible And Reversible Design And Display
The Fleurier Virtuoso V by Bovet is deeply inspired by a pocket watch, as all watches from their Fleurier collection are. Introduced to the world in 2015, the Fleurier Virtuoso V was the first timepiece featuring the Virtuoso II calibre. This movement integrates two complex complications—jumping hours and retrograde minutes. The timepiece has been designed to be worn and used in three different ways: a wristwatch, a pocket watch and a table clock. This has been made possible with the help of the patented Amadéo convertible case, which is available in different materials from gold to titanium.
This case structure allows the hours and minutes of the watch to be read from both sides of the movement. The presence of a layout like this offers the watch extreme legibility. On one side, the wearer can view the dial with the jumping hours and retrograde minutes. On the other side, one can admire the open-worked view of the movement. A power reserve display, indicating the watch’s autonomy of five days, completes the watch’s overall look. An additional function added to the watch is the presence of a corrector independent of the hour disc. This function allows the display of a different time zone on each side of the timepiece.
The Virtuoso And Its GPHG Award Nomination
Since its inception, many versions of the Virtuoso V have been introduced. These include the lacquered guilloche dial, in red or blue, and available in a case made from 18-karat red or white gold. A more recently released Virtuoso V comes with a salmon-coloured dial and grade-5 titanium case. It is worth noting that the latter has also been nominated for the 2022 GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève) awards, under the Men’s Complication prize.
The Virtuoso’s Complex Functionality
As seen in the earlier versions of the watch, the Fleurier Virtuoso V in rose gold comes in the 43.5mm patented and iconic Amadéo-system convertible case, housing the hand-wound calibre 3BM11AIHSMR. It offers a complication of jumping hours with retrograde minutes, seen on the full-salmon side of the case. The movement also includes patented reversed hand-fitting, which allows the hands to turn clockwise on both sides. The in-house movement clocks in a power reserve of five days.
The two dials are offered in vibrant salmon colour, made in-house at the Bovet dial workshop and then baked in a special oven. Once done, it is covered with six layers of transparent lacquer, with the dial being cured after every layer. It is then polished and baked in an oven to produce a lustrous hue that will never change colour.
The Fleurier Virtuoso V in rose gold comes with an alligator leather strap with two specially equipped strap segments. This allows the wearer to switch easily using Bovet’s Amadéo system, giving the timepiece immense versatility. To use it as a pocket watch, the timepiece also comes with a red gold chain. And to set it down as a table clock, the stand can be extended from the case itself, quite effortlessly.
An Enigma In Blue
A new addition to the Bovet Virtuoso V family is a cobalt blue dial version. Cradled within the 43.5mm case in 18-karat red gold, the dial carries the same set of time indications as the salmon dial, and the lacquered guilloche patterned surface. The reverse off-centre dial and power reserve indicator are also in the same shade of blue, which complement the blue screws. The watch comes with two strap attachment options: a blue alligator leather strap and an 18-karat red gold chain to accommodate the shapeshifting skills of this model.
Final Thoughts
To be very honest, while the style of the Fleurier Virtuoso V may not be everyone’s cup of tea, this timepiece does tend to make a case for itself. From the technical innovation to the grand design of the watch, the Virtuoso V will no doubt be an absolute pleasure once you get used to the grandeur of the piece, owing to its sheer versatility and functionality.
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Bovet Fleurier
ACHS048
Beautiful!!