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ReviewOut Of The Square Box: Presenting The Bell & Ross Aéronavale And Their Vintage Series

Parisian watchmaker Bell & Ross are more than just their iconic square cases, and their Vintage series proves just how much more. We take a look at how the brand managed to create a ‘Vintage’ collection that is as retro as it is bold and modern

Geetanjali Jhala March 10, 2023

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There’s no denying the instant recognition garnered by Bell & Ross’s ‘circle-within-a-square’ timepieces, inspired by aviation instruments. There’s also no doubt that, icon or not, this polarising design isn’t for everyone. So, for those enthusiasts who appreciate what the brand stands for, the French luxury watchmaker introduced their Vintage line of circular-shaped cases that also had an aviation and military inspiration. The Bell & Ross Vintage Aéronavale timepiece, for instance, also has an aviation influence, but more specifically, the inspiration comes from the ceremonial uniforms of the French Navy’s air arm. But while these timepieces boasted traditional shapes, their functions—and, largely, even form—were anything but. With complications such as the chronograph, flyback functions, and small seconds, and bold colours to boot, this Vintage line of watches has everything that makes a Bell & Ross timepiece special—minus the divisive square case, that is.

Bell & Ross Vintage Aéronavale Uniform — The Bell & Ross Vintage Aéronavale timepiece also has an aviation influence, but more specifically, the inspiration comes from the ceremonial uniforms of the French Navy’s air arm

Aéronavale Inspiration From Naval Aviation Uniforms

The Vintage Aéronavale’s round 41mm stainless steel case houses a deep blue sunray dial with gilt Arabic numerals featured at one, three, six and nine o’clock, golden baton indexes for the other hour markers, and golden skeletonised timekeeping hands filled with Super-LumiNova. In contrast, the white minute track stands out against the timepiece’s blue and gold. The rotating bezel is in the same shade of navy as the dial, with 10-minute markers in gold, and a coin edge that matches the edging on the crown with the brand’s ampersand logo.

The effect of light mirroring off the sunburst radial dial is matched by the way the beautiful cushioned leather strap reflects light at different angles

The chronograph version of this blue Aéronavale timepiece only features Arabic numerals at 12 and six o’clock, while the other indexes are marked by golden batons. The horizontal bicompax dial features small seconds at three and a 30-minute recorder at nine o’clock, with concentric-circular graining within the sub-counters and a contrasting gold outline around it. This chronograph version has retro-looking pushers on either side of the crown guards.

Adding to the vintage appeal of both the timepieces are the gorgeous blue handmade calfskin leather straps. The effect of light mirroring off the sunburst radial dial is matched by the way the beautiful cushioned leather strap reflects light at different angles. The beige stitching on the strap matches the gilt on the dial, completing the retro look of the otherwise modern Vintage Aéronavale timepiece. The strap is held together with a satin-finished stainless steel deployant buckle with the Bell & Ross brand name engraved on it.

Under the blue Aéronavale veneer is the automatic mechanical calibre BR-301, which beats at a frequency of 28,800vph, offers a 42-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 100m. A modern aspect of this vintage watch is the sapphire crystal caseback that offers a view of the movement within.

Bell & Ross Vintage SHOP THE COLLECTION

Matt Black And Vintage Beauty

Another example of a gorgeous black vintage dial against a beautiful handmade calfskin leather strap is the BR V2-94 Black Steel. The matt, black dial features Super-LumiNova coated hour markers and Arabic numerals for 12 and six, with lume-filled skeletonised metal hands, and a bicompax layout with the small seconds at three and 30-minute recorder at nine o’clock. The matt black of the dial emphasises the satin finish of the 41mm stainless steel case and anodised black aluminium ring and tachymeter scale on the steel bezel.

On this matt model, the ultra-curved sapphire crystal glass stands out in greater contrast, highlighting the smooth finish of the overall timepiece. The BR-301 calibre powers the matt black vintage model as well, and like its aero-naval cousin, the movement can be viewed through the display caseback.

Pop Of Luminous Neon, ‘Neo-Retro’ Orange

As a brand, Bell & Ross have come to be associated with their bold approach to watchmaking, and highlighting what needs to be highlighted. Their aim seems not just to be different, but to make a timepiece a necessary tool, instead of just an accessory. To this end, naturally, legibility rates high on the ‘tool’ scale for a timepiece. So their BR V2-92 Full Lum (which is code for ‘fully luminous’) and BR V2-92 Orange timepieces offer perfect legibility in all light conditions.

The rounded 41mm steel case of the BR V2-92 Full Lum features a pale pistachio-green dial with bold Super-LumiNova-filled black skeletonised hands, and lume-filled Arabic numerals and hour markers outlined in black. The dial is framed by a black bidirectional bezel with the same coin-edging as the crown, though the latter is partly hidden by the crown guards. In dim light conditions, this unassuming-looking timepiece acquires a whole new identity, with the Super-LumiNova playing hero on the canvas of the dial. Against a black rubber strap, the psychedelic effect of the Full Lum dial is stunning.

With similar hour markers and hands filled with Super-LumiNova, the BR V2-92 Orange stands out during the day with its ‘neo-retro’ coastguard-orange dial, which is also reminiscent of skateboarding in the 70s. Mounted on a stainless steel bracelet or a contrasting black textured rubber strap, this watch looks sufficiently vintage just by virtue of its round bright orange dial.

These rounded Vintage models by Bell & Ross only go to prove what the brand have attempted from the beginning. By placing function first, the relatively young watchmaking brand have carved their niche in the world of haute horlogerie. And while their round-in-a-square watches speak for themselves, introducing a beautiful round ‘vintage’ timepiece is no easy feat, especially when the two-centuries-plus-something competition is, by definition, vintage.