Round-UpSeven Magnificent Timepieces From Louis Moinet That Exemplify Their Retro-Luxe Charm

With their distinct avant-garde timepieces that look straight out of a science-fiction film, Louis Moinet have established themselves as a name to reckon with in the watchmaking world, especially when it comes to chronographs. After all, one wouldn’t expect anything less from a brand that’s named after the eponymous 19th century watchmaker—who created the first pocket chronograph in 1816. While there’s no dearth of chronograph manufacturers in this space—some highly noted and prestigious ones at that—Louis Moinet’s watches stand out for their retro aesthetic and opulence borrowed from an era that’s gone by.

The atelier crafts watches under two broad pillars: Cosmic Art and Mechanical Wonders; with only one-of-a-kind pieces or limited editions. These watchmaking marvels pay homage to the celestial world by not merely depicting moon phases or planetary positions but by capturing the essence of the universe with space material, such as moon dust, Mars rocks, and even meteorite shards. This is evident in their latest launches at this year’s Watches and Wonders with the Moon Race timepieces that are an ode to mankind’s exploration of the Earth’s satellite. There are four pieces—all feature an authentic fragment of the spacecraft that were part of four historic Moon missions. Certainly quite a feat! Let’s take a closer look at some spectacular creations from Louis Moinet that spell grandeur and fine watchmaking par excellence.

Louis Moinet Derrick

Crafted in a 45.4mm rose gold case, the Louis Moinet Derrick stands out for its dial with an open-worked mechanism on the left side at the nine o’clock position, which gives a peek into the workings of the self-winding Calibre LM64

In 2013, Louis Moinet added a brand new watchmaking concept to their repertoire: the Derrick Tourbillon. This timepiece offered a fascinating advanced mechanism in the shape of a Derrick—a reliable good ol’ fashioned structure above an oil well that supports the drill, resembling a scythe. Highly complex with a unique time-telling concept, this garnered rave reviews, while many collectors also demanding a pared-down version of the same. And six years later, the brand did just that with a more modern and minimalist version of this concept. Crafted in the brand’s legendary 45.4mm rose gold Neo case, the watch stands out for its dial, which is the main focus here. The main openworked mechanism has been shifted from the centre to the left of the dial at around the nine o’clock position. This looks perfect against a black surface with a traditional feel, and also has a hand-punched finish that imparts a brilliant sheen. Only the traditional, distinctive components of the derrick are on display—the main shaft and horse head, the drive shaft, and its counterweight—setting off a cycle that repeats three times a minute. The wheel located at six o’clock displays the seconds. Water-resistant to 50m and limited to 12 pieces, the Derrick is equipped with the self-winding Calibre LM64, composed of 248 parts, beating at a frequency of 28,800vph. This can keep it functional for up to 48 hours. A black leather strap adds the finishing touch.

Louis Moinet Metropolis Magic Green

The Metropolis' dial stands out owing to its several open-worked layers

It is powered by the LM45 calibre, boasting a 48-hour power reserve, and is housed in a 43.2mm stainless steel case

Louis Moinet Metropolis

₹12,52,000

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The Metropolis borrows design elements from the first pocket chronograph created by Louis Moinet in 1816. The dizzying architecture of the dial stands out for the several openworked layers. The Metropolis Magic Green adopts a distinctive, contemporary approach to showcase the skeletonisation incorporated on the hour markers, the dial, and on the lugs and vertical bridges, which imparts a three-dimensional effect. Each side of the Roman numerals has a diamond-cut, satin-finish section that reflects light deep into the dial. This lights up the green disc below the mesh of hour markers. However, the brand are highly secretive about how they achieved this sparkling green hue. It is powered by the LM45 calibre, boasting a 48-hour power reserve, and is housed in a 43.2mm stainless steel case. One can get a peek into the inner workings of this movement through the aperture between eight and 12 o’clock—the escapement generating a frequency of 28,800vph and the offset seconds hand, in particular. The elapsed time is indicated by double-lined Gouttes de Rosée dewdrop hands. Limited to 60 pieces, the watch is presented on a black leather strap fitted with a folding clasp decorated with the brand’s signature fleur-de-lis symbol.

Louis Moinet Mars

The Louis Moinet Mars watch takes on the space route with a limited edition of 12 pieces in red gold. This is further enhanced as the Martian surface has been recreated using a brass dial

₹40,99,000

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It showcases a genuine Mars meteorite fragment in a capsule at the three o’clock position, and the dial even depicts the famous volcanoes found on the Red Planet

₹40,99,000

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One can view the inner workings of the automatic Calibre LM45 beating at a frequency of 28,800vph from an openwork section between eight and 12 o’clock, and the offset seconds at nine o’clock

₹40,99,000

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True to its DNA of crafting watches inspired by the cosmos, the Louis Moinet Mars watch takes on the space route with a limited edition of 12 pieces crafted in red gold. This is further enhanced as the Martian surface has been recreated using a brass dial, which complements the sizeable 45.4mm case. It showcases a genuine Mars meteorite fragment in a capsule at the three o’clock position, and the dial even depicts the famous volcanoes found on the Red Planet. The Olympus Mons is right at the centre; the Ascraeus Mons is between one and two o’clock; the Pavonis Mons is placed between four and five o’clock; and Arsia Mons is between five and six o’clock. One can view the inner workings of the automatic Calibre LM45 beating at a frequency of 28,800vph from an open-worked section between eight and 12 o’clock, and the offset seconds carefully placed at nine o’clock position. On the rear, one can also get a glimpse of the movement with the oscillating weight in the same shade as the dial, with a copper-coloured, concentric Clous de Paris finish. The Mars timepiece is fitted on an alligator leather strap and is water-resistant to 50m.

Louis Moinet Moon

Crafted in a rose gold case, the Louis Moinet Moon watch's dial forms the most striking feature where at three o’clock, one finds a capsule containing a genuine lunar meteorite fragment

One can view the escapement of the high-precision automatic movement Calibre LM45 between eight and 12 o’clock, beating at a frequency of 28,800vph, with a 48-hour power reserve

Louis Moinet Cosmic Art

₹40,99,000

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An ode to astronomy, the Louis Moinet Moon wristwatch is a limited edition of 12 pieces in rose gold. The dial forms the most striking feature where at three o’clock, one finds a capsule containing a genuine lunar meteorite fragment. This is set against a backdrop—a faithful representation of the lunar surface, and Louis Moinet have even created accurate depictions of the famous craters—Gassendi, Tycho and Cassini—found on our natural satellite. This has been executed on a brass dial to get the right textures. The watch showcases three different sets of open-worked parts—on the hour markers, on the dial, and on the lugs and vertical bridges—for a three-dimensional effect. The hour markers, with three different geometrical sections and satin, diamond-studded finish are designed to reflect the blue flange that packs them in on the dial. One can observe the escapement between eight and 12 o’clock, beating at a frequency of 28,800vph, and the offset seconds hand placed carefully at nine o’clock to provide an unobstructed view of the mechanism. This is part of the high-precision automatic calibre LM45, offering a power reserve of 48 hours, housed in Louis Moinet’s Neo case in rose gold, measuring 45.4mm in diameter. Water-resistant to 50m, the Moon timekeeper is presented on a blue alligator leather strap with a folding clasp.

Louis Moinet Tempograph Chrome

The Louis Moinet Tempograph stands out for its 20-second retrograde hand, powered by a movement whose inner workings are visible on the left side of the dial

Here, the two versions stand out for their black and blue accents on the dial, which extend from the bridges that structure the movement to the flange—engraved with a Clous de Paris pattern

Louis Moinet Tempograph Chrome Explore the Collection

One of the most successful collections for Louis Moinet, the Tempograph Chrome charms with its understated elegance topped by ingenious fine watchmaking appeal. The 20-second retrograde hand, powered by the inner workings of the movement—visible on the left side of the dial—is what instantly catches the eye. The black or blue dial extends from the bridges that structure the movement to the flange, which is engraved with a Clous de Paris pattern. The hours and minutes are off-centred towards four o’clock. Fully lacquered in black or blue, it forms the perfect backdrop for the signature ‘dewdrop’ hands. The watch also features a new stainless steel case borrowed from the brand’s Memoris collection, and has been reduced to 44mm from the previous generous measurement of 46mm. It houses the automatic calibre LM50, comprising 260 components, and capable of storing a power reserve of 48 hours. Water-resistant to 50m, this neo-classical timepiece comes with a leather strap.

Louis Moinet Memoris

Louis Moinet Mechanical Wonders

₹47,50,000

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While most contemporary chronographs have the standard norm of a chapter ring on the dial with a tachymeter scale on the bezel, and are more often than not designed to suit a sporty aesthetic—the Louis Moinet Memoris by no means plays by the same rules. Launched in 2016, to mark the 200th anniversary of the chronograph, this collection is really important for the brand since it makes the chronograph the central function while time is more like the complication here. The caseband is inscribed with the Louis Moinet signature, and its lugs boast four black zircons in a screwed setting—an ingenious method for case decoration. They are also sleek and sit comfortably on the wearer’s wrist. The lateral clutch is operated by a monopusher with a hobnail pattern, at the two o’clock position. The Memoris collection consists of nine limited editions of 12 pieces, each in a 46mm case made of 18-karat rose gold.

Here, the Memoris chronograph in a red gold case with a green dial, showcases a centrally-mounted chronograph hand and the chronograph counters at three and nine o’clock

Water-resistant to 50m, the Memoris chronograph is presented on a lustrous black leather strap that looks regal, and strikes a stark contrast against the deep green hues on the dial

Louis Moinet Mechanical Wonders

₹57,20,000

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These versions feature a blue or a green dial with the hours and minutes depicted by a single sub-dial at six o’clock. The main real estate here is occupied by the centrally mounted chronograph hand and the chronograph counters at three and nine o’clock. The movement that makes all these functions possible is Calibre LM54 that beats at a frequency of 28,800vph and packs in a power reserve of 48 hours. Comprising 302 components, the watchmaker has separated the chronograph (147 components) from the automatic mechanism (155 components) for better efficiency. It also comes with an automatic pawl-winding system with an elegant spring in a ‘crab claw’ design, or a bidirectional winding system with a miniature ceramic ball bearing mounted on the dual-material rotor. This ‘Energie Plus’ system allows the watch to be wound up in both directions, with minimum energy loss. This helps the watch to maximise its power reserve. Water-resistant to 50m, these Memoris models are presented on a lustrous black leather strap that forms a stark contrast against the blue or green dials.

Louis Moinet Memoris Superlight

Louis Moinet Mechanical Wonders

₹28,80,000

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Based on the same concept that drives the Memoris timepieces, Louis Moinet have also introduced the Memoris in a Superlight edition, made of titanium—an ultralight watch despite housing such a heavy-duty mechanism. A modern design with a distinctive construction—the brand have introduced colourful iterations of this tech marvel—each one a limited edition of 28 pieces. Weighing less than 31g, the 46mm case in grade-5 titanium has a polished, satin finish, is non-corrosive and is extremely comfortable on the wrist. The Memoris also stands out because for the first time, the entire chronograph part is fully visible on the upper side of the watch.

Here, the Memoris Superlight with an orange and blue dial, displays a mechanism where the column wheel looks prominent, positioned at 12 o’clock. It is operated by a monopusher at two o’clock

It’s interesting to note that despite the complexity of the movement, Louis Moinet have managed to keep the single push piece in charge of controlling all the chronograph operations

Louis Moinet Mechanical Wonders

₹27,08,000

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Here the timepieces feature dial colours in: midnight blue ; cobalt blue; and a mix of blue and orange. With an ingenious mechanism that separates the chronograph (with its 147 components) from the automatic mechanism (155 components), the column wheel here takes pride of place on the dial, positioned at 12 o’clock. The chronograph functions with the minutes hammer, blocking lever, and clutch—all are coordinated by this mechanism, operated by a mono-pusher at two o’clock. It’s interesting to note that despite the complexity of the movement, Louis Moinet have managed to keep the single push piece in charge of controlling the operations—without compromising on the design aspect. Thanks to the automatic calibre LM79, which boasts 302 parts; the Memoris Superlight can function smoothly for at least 48 hours. The titanium case features a unique waterproofing system, the crown engraved with the brand’s fleur-de-lis symbol, and the case band emblazoned with the Louis Moinet signature. Water-resistant to 50m, these Memoris Superlight pieces are available with navy blue, or cobalt blue alligator leathers straps—complementing their respective dial hues, fitted with folding clasps.