Round-UpPrecision Rules: 10 Of The Finest Certified Chronometer Watches

It’s quite bizarre that a frequently asked question about watches is: what’s the difference between a chronograph watch and a chronometer watch? In today’s parlance, they mean completely different things—a chronograph measures the duration of an event or an occurrence, while a chronometer is a certified level of accuracy in timekeeping. However, literally, or etymologically, a chronometer means an instrument of measuring time, so confusing it with a chronograph—which is an instrument that measures intervals of time—isn’t actually all that bizarre. A ‘chronometer’ today, however, is not just any time-measuring instrument; it’s a word taken far more seriously, and one that cannot be used freely.

The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) states that a chronometer has ‘come to mean a high-precision watch displaying seconds whose movement has been controlled over a period of several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body. Only mechanisms that have satisfied the criteria for precision of ISO 3159, or its equivalent, are issued with an official chronometer certificate’. Specifically in Switzerland, the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) is the official neutral body that certifies movements as chronometer movements. In this race for achieving the ultimate precision in mechanical timekeeping, a COSC certification is not taken lightly. While a few big names in watchmaking produce only timepieces that run on certified chronometer movements, the certification is a distinction that most others covet. When a movement is COSC-certified, it is a huge honour for the manufacturer and one that puts them in a different league of timekeeping.

Among the biggest names in the world of watchmaking, brands such as Omega have their own certifications, assigned to watches with movements that are COSC-certified and then put through more rounds of rigorous testing. Here, we explore a few exceptional watches with certified chronometer mechanisms, including an Omega Master Chronometer watch.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21

Housing one of the most revered chronograph movements in the world of watchmaking, the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 has been Zenith’s pride and joy for five decades. This COSC-certified El Primero 9004 automatic movement—offering a minimum power reserve of 50 hours—can measure up to 1/100th of a second, and has an ‘exclusive dynamic signature of one rotation per second for the chronograph hand’. The movement runs at a frequency of 36,000vph, while a separate escapement for the chronograph feature vibrates at an astounding 3,60,000vph. All this certified chronometer timekeeping goodness is housed within a 44mm, 18-karat rose gold case, water-resistant to 100m, and fitted with a sapphire crystal caseback and domed sapphire crystal for the glass. The brown alligator leather strap has a black rubber lining underneath.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Calibre Heuer-02T

With motor-racing ingrained in TAG Heuer’s DNA, Carrera is just one of their racing collections—along with the Monaco and the Formula 1 lines. However, it is arguably the most popular. More certain is that the Carrera collection includes editions that present the brand’s advanced watchmaking prowess, as one might glean from this COSC-certified chronometer, which combines the most popular watchmaking complication with the most revered. Yes, the automatic calibre Heuer-02T—which offers a 65-hour power reserve—includes a chronograph as well as a one-minute tourbillon. The latter is seen at six o’clock, while the 12-hour and 30-minute chronograph counters are at nine and three on the very edgy display, which includes chiselled hour indexes and hands that have plenty of Super-LumiNova. The avant-garde design extends onto the 45mm case as well, in black PVD-treated titanium, with carbon used for the lugs and the fixed bezel, which features a tachymeter scale. The sapphire crystal glass matches the caseback, surrounded by black PVD-treated titanium. Water resistant to 100m, the case comes fitted with a black rubber strap with a titanium buckle.

TAG Heuer Carrera

₹22,44,000

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Parmigiani Toric Chronomètre

The automatic COSC-certified PF441 chronometer movement that this Parmigiani classic runs on offers a 55-hour power reserve, owing to its oscillating mass, which is in delicately engraved gold, and can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback. And admire it you will, as it displays some of the finest decoration that you might come across on a movement, truly exemplifying haute horlogerie. The highlight is the oscillating weight—made from 18-karat gold and decorated with a barley grain pattern using hand-guilloche work. The 40.8mm case also presents Parmigiani Toric Chronomètre’s tremendous attention to detail and implementation of design inspirations, which include the Doric pillars of ancient Greek architecture that inform the construction of the bezel and crown. Further to that, even the sublime off-white dial adds textural splendour with its gorgeous grained effect, which is produced by rubbing silver powder onto a brass plate. In addition to the simple, three-hand timekeeping is a date window at six o’clock, in Parmigiani’s wide-arc design. Its golden frame and the timekeeping hands complement the 18-karat gold case, which is water-resistant to 30m. Attached to it is an Hermès alligator leather strap, which comes with an 18-karat gold pin-buckle.

Parmigiani Toric

₹30,70,000

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Co‑axial Master Chronometer

The brand of Swiss-made watches with the second highest number of watches with calibres that receive the chronometer certification from the COSC, Omega creates several flagship models that also qualify as Master Chronometers, based on rigorous tests that they conduct themselves. Over 10 days, eight tests are conducted on finished products that run on COSC-certified movements, to further test the accuracy of the timekeeping, along with the performance of the watches underwater, when subjected to temperature fluctuation, and when exposed to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss. Tested in six different positions, Omega’s Master Chronometer watches also have the approval of the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), who have assured that the testing leaves no room for doubt. So if your Omega has the words ‘Master Chronometer’ on the dial—as is seen in this signature Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Co‑axial Master Chronometer—you can rest assured that your watch’s mechanical timekeeping is par excellence. The 2018-updated Diver 300M is powered by the Omega calibre 8800, which offers a power reserve of 55 hours. With a date window at six o’clock, this three-hand diver’s watch comes with highly luminous hour markers and hands, and a helium-escape valve at 10 o’clock on the 42mm case, water-resistant to 300m. The dial with a wave pattern comes in various hues, including grey, blue and black, while the watch is available in steel or combinations of steel and yellow or Sedna gold, with a strap in either rubber or metal.

If your Omega has the words 'Master Chronometer' on the dial—as is seen in the Seamaster Diver 300M—you can rest assured that its timekeeping is par excellence

₹8,13,200

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This three-hand diver’s watch comes with highly luminous hour markers and hands, and a helium escape valve at 10 o’clock on the 42mm case, water resistant to 300m

₹5,79,300

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The dial with a wave pattern comes in various hues, including grey, blue and black

₹5,45,900

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The Diver 300M is available in steel or combinations of steel and yellow or Sedna gold, with a strap in either rubber or metal

₹12,36,500

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The 2018-updated Diver 300M is powered by the Omega Master Chronometer calibre 8800, which offers a power reserve of 55 hours

₹5,79,300

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01

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi TravelTec FourX

The CFB 1901.1 certified chronometer movement that powers this advanced travel watch includes Carl F. Bucherer’s innovative time zone push-piece, seen at 10 o’clock on the case. This pusher is used in Carl F. Bucherer Patravi to move the 24-hour scale forward or backward, depending on whether you’re travelling east or west. With a display of three time zones, this watch also includes a chronograph, as well as a date function, displayed in red, between four and five o’clock. The 46.6mm case itself is built from advanced materials including palladium 950, titanium, ceramic, and rubber. The sapphire crystal on the 50m-water-resistant case has an antireflective coating on either side, allowing for a clearer visual of the skeletonised dial. The watch comes fitted with a rubber strap, with a titanium buckle.

The CFB 1901.1 certified chronometer movement that powers this advanced travel watch includes Carl F. Bucherer’s innovative time zone push-piece to move the 24 hour scale forward or backward, depending on whether you’re travelling east or west

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral

Probably the most successful brand in creating a movement with a peripherally-mounted winding rotor, Carl F. Bucherer have garnered tremendous critical acclaim for their flagship Manero Peripheral. Further to that, despite its slim profile at the edge of the calibre, the sleek oscillating mass is more than adequate, since it helps the movement perform with a chronometer-certified level of accuracy. This calibre CFB A2050 offers a 55-hour power reserve. This perfect dress watch—set in a 40.6mm case, water-resistant to 30m—comes with a clean dial featuring applied hour indexes, the date at three, and the small seconds at six o’clock. The steel edition comes with a dial in white or black, and a steel bracelet or a Louisiana alligator leather strap—grey with white, and black with black. A gold version features the latter combination of dial and strap, as well as an 18-karat gold pin-buckle.

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral EXPLORE THE COLLECTION

Bremont ALT1-P2 JET Black Pilot’s Chronograph

An embodiment of modern flying technology, the Bremont ALT1-P2 JET uses the automatic COSC-certified BE-53AE movement, based on the ETA 7753 calibre. The brand have extensively reworked the calibre only to make it more reliable and accurate. With a power reserve of 42 hours, the nicely finished movement has a stealth aesthetic owing to its 42mm black DLC-coated steel case. The complementing black dial features a small seconds counter at nine o’clock, a 30-minute counter at three, and a date counter at six.  Overall, the ALT1-P2 JET is a quintessential pilot’s watch with a modern and more aggressive take on the earlier versions of the ALT1 collection, which was first launched in 2017 to mark Bremont’s 10th anniversary. Exemplifying their passion for adventure and engineering, the brand have collaborated with Gravity Industries—designers of revolutionary arm-mounted miniature jet engines—to test the watch. The ALT1-P2 JET was a part of test flights of jet-powered wingsuits, with speeds of up to 85mph, and as expected, it emerged with flying colours.

Bremont Altitude

₹5,83,000

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Breitling Superocean Héritage II B20 Automatic 44

The thing about Breitling watches is that all their watches come with the chronometer certification from the COSC. In fact, Breitling is the brand with the third highest number of watches with COSC certifications in Switzerland, next only to Rolex and Omega. Among Breitling’s vast repertoire of extremely accurate chronometer-certified movements is their in-house B20 automatic calibre, which runs this Superocean Héritage II, which is a part of the 2017 edition that marked the 60th anniversary of the Superocean dive watch collection. With a unidirectional-rotating dive-timer bezel in black and a dial to match, the display features the word ‘chronometer’ clearly printed below the Superocean logo, above six o’clock. The watch is set in 44mm steel case that is water-resistant to 200m, and features 18-karat gold elements, such as the base of the ratcheted bezel. Additional accents that complement the gold are markers on the bezel and the dial’s applied hour indexes and hands, which feature adequate Super-LumiNova, for enhanced visibility in the dark or underwater. Breitling’s ‘ocean classic’ mesh-style bracelet strap completes the look of this handsome sport watch.

Breitling is the brand with the third highest number of watches with COSC certifications in Switzerland, next only to Rolex and Omega. Among Breitling’s vast repertoire of extremely accurate chronometer-certified movements is their in-house B20 automatic calibre, which runs this Superocean Héritage II

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic

In 2018, Baume & Mercier debuted their first in-house movement with the new Baumatic collection. A simple, three-hand watch with the date, the Baumatic came in multiple variations, including one that had a version of the movement that was COSC-certified, and offered a significant power reserve of five days. This timepiece was distinguished by a crosshairs on the white dial, and, of course, the words ‘5 days-chronometer’ on its lower half. Set in a 40mm steel case, with a water resistance of 50m, this watch garnered praise from users and critics alike, so Baume & Mercier released it with a dial in blue the following year. Subsequent editions have included a smoky grey dial, as well as a few two-tone versions in steel and gold. All versions of this chronometer watch come with a leather strap or a bracelet, with are easily interchangeable.

Explore the entire Clifton Baumatic collection

In 2018, Baume & Mercier debuted their first in-house movement with the new Baumatic collection, including one that had a version of the movement that was COSC-certified

₹2,86,000

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The Baumatic offers a significant power reserve of five days

₹3,40,000

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The chronometer edition is distinguished by a crosshairs on the dial, and, of course, the words ‘5 days-chronometer’

₹3,40,000

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Set in a 40mm steel case, with a water resistance of 50m, this watch garnered praise from users and critics alike, so Baume & Mercier released it with a dial in blue the following year

₹3,14,000

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Subsequent editions have included a smoky grey dial

₹3,14,000

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All versions of this chronometer watch come with a leather strap or a bracelet, which are easily interchangeable

₹3,14,000

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Each edition of the Clifton Baumatic makes for a very handsome dress watch

₹2,86,000

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01

Arnold & Son Tourbillon Chronometer No 36

This modern-day Tourbillon Chronometer No 36 from Arnold & Son is inspired by the first time-measuring device to be referred to as a ‘chronometer’. A pocket watch, the Chronometer No 1/36 was developed in 1778, by celebrated English watchmaker John Arnold—after whom the brand Arnold & Son is named—and was known for its unprecedented precision. This Tourbillon Chronometer No 36 was released in 2018 to commemorate the 240th anniversary of the 1778 timepiece, while also paying homage to that pocket watch. The construction of the exposed movement also takes its cues from traditional English chronometer timepieces that also featured gears mounted on protruding bridges. The COSC-certified chronometer calibre A&S8600 features this distinction embossed on the component seen between one and two o’clock, while the small seconds hand is diametrically opposite this, and the tourbillon cage can be seen between four and five. All the visible components—even those that you see through the transparent caseback—are decorated with bevelling and brushed finishing, among other detailing. The manual-winding movement can store a 90-hour reserve of power when fully wound. The watch comes in a generously-sized case, at 46mm in diameter, either in 18-karat red gold or in steel, with hands and hour markers to match the case. The black DLC-treated bridges in the steel version help present the same stark contrast seen between the components and the case in the gold version.

Arnold & Son Chronometer No 36 EXPLORE THE COLLECTION