Q&AOris’s Chief, On The Brand That Seeks First To Make People Smile

Could you talk about the latest 2024 novelties?

There is this special LFP edition of the Divers Sixty-Five. This is the first time we have touched the Oris logo. Here it is in a child’s handwriting, because with this charming limited edition of our Sixty-Five, we are supporting a good cause that involves children.

It’s in support of Les Défenseurs de l’Enfance, which is a charity football tournament that takes place under the guidance of France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel. They support children who come from difficult social upbringings to give them structure and a goal in their lives, and this ties very well with our efforts towards changing things for the better. Sustainability is not all that we seek. We also try to support the society that we live in. This watch has turned out to be a very charming model.

"It’s in support of Les Défenseurs de l’Enfance, which is a charity football tournament that takes place under the guidance of France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel"

"They support children who come from difficult social upbringings to give them structure and a goal in their lives, and this ties very well with our efforts towards changing things for the better"

With the Aquis having undergone an update earlier this year, and now the Divers Sixty-Five getting a facelift, what goes behind deciding the details of the changes to the existing designs?

Yes, you have seen updates in some of our watches already. Aquis, our most important family was given an update that was presented this year at Watches and Wonders. Our strategy is to further improve and better the product we already have. We don’t believe we have to change everything. With the Aquis, it’s a new case shape, new bracelet, with our patented clasp that can be adjusted without opening the buckle. The quick-change system for the bracelet and the straps, and the new proportions on the top ring, new font, and so on…a lot of things that came together, which make for a better Aquis.

And in Divers Sixty-Five, we went a little bit further, so here is the Divers Date. This collection started out as a vintage watch—a reference to the original model of 1965. Now the updated version isn’t so vintage anymore. It’s more timeless. And many elements have changed. The water resistance has also gone from 100m to 200m. We have a ceramic top ring, while the domed sapphire crystal glass is a little flatter. The proportions of the case have changed, and a new crown makes it sturdier. There’s a new clasp, an open caseback now. Before, there was a vintage logo on the closed caseback. Now it’s an open caseback because it’s not a vintage watch anymore. It’s a classic watch yeah, but with modern touches. It really is an evolution, and we presented for the first time at Geneva Watch Days 2024, and everybody liked it instantly. We are happy with the response.

Along with design, where does material innovation stand for you?

Recently we had the laser dial of the ProPilot, which is made completely from titanium and there is not a single drop on it. With micro laser treatment on the surface, the reflection of red waves of light is eliminated, and the result is this fascinating spectrum of colour that you see. We are the first ones to use this technique in watchmaking. It’s a testament to the curiosity that we have at Oris and our desire to do things differently.

"Recently we had the laser dial of the ProPilot, which is made completely from titanium and there is not a single drop on it. With micro laser treatment on the surface, the reflection of red waves of light is eliminated, and the result is this fascinating spectrum of colour that you see."

Another example is also in our aviation line, where we have a 3D carbon-printed case that no one else has. When you print carbon in 3D, you can define how you want the fibres to be. This is important, in order to really use the strains of carbon fibre right, because you need the strength on the lugs especially.

"Another example is also in our aviation line, where we have a 3D-printed carbon case that no one else has. When you print carbon in 3D, you can define how you want the fibres to be." This here is the Coulson Edition, which is set in a 3D-printed carbon case

When it comes to your ‘Change for the better’ initiatives, how do you decide on which causes to support?

Well, there are different things that are important to the brands. At the end of the day, it is about making people smile. This is our purpose. We are not here to make people envious. We are here to create products that are appreciated by the community and that people enjoy. This is what drives us apart from our three pillars: independence, sustainability and products that make sense. Independence is clear. In sustainability, there are environmental and social causes that are important to us, and we take up whatever opportunities that make sense to us. And then our products also must make sense. For example, a tourbillon is a fantastic complication, but it makes no sense in a wristwatch. It’s right for some brands out there. They have done that for decades, but for us, we choose to create complications and features that have practical use, such as altimeters, depth gauges, power reserve indication, etc.

Speaking of making people smile, the Kermit edition did fantastically across the world. It was loved by everyone. Can we expect any more collaborations with Disney or any other such studios or companies for more such watches?

There could be some surprises down the line. We’ll have to wait and watch.

The Kermit edition of the ProPilot was unveiled in 2023, in collaboration with Disney, featuring their beloved character Kermit, the frog, from popular show 'Sesame Street'

₹4,50,000

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The watch had a dial in Kermit green, and had Kermit's face for the 1st of the month (in the date window), which Oris dubbed as 'Kermit day' to make people happy. This here is a still from their campaign

₹4,50,000

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The watch runs on the brand's in-house calibre 400, which offers a five-day power reserve

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I’d like your opinion on recent industry-related developments—namely changes in ownership, such as Rolex taking over Bucherer, Chanel buying a stake in MB&F, etc. What do such changes mean for the industry and for watchmaking itself?

Yes, we have been seeing further consolidation in the market. The thing is that our industry is dominated by a small number of key players, and with such changes, it means that things will be more streamlined, more uniform. I don’t think it’s a game for end consumers in any way. But for us, it makes our positioning of being independent even stronger. It also makes things more difficult in certain ways, because groups they like to use their accumulated power to further their profits, so we need to fight harder. Distributors who own brands tend to give these brands a lot of space, which may mean that you have less space in their stores, which makes a difference, if the products at the same price point. Rolex taking over Bucherer, is good for us because Rolex is an independent institution by itself.