ReviewA Retro-Modern Classic: Presenting The Girard-Perregaux Neo Bridges Timepieces
One of the oldest manufacturers in the haute horlogerie segment, Girard-Perregaux are not content with simply resting on their laurels. Synonymous with their iconic ‘three bridges’ design, the brand are embracing the present with more contemporary iterations of their cult-classic, exemplified by their Neo Bridges line
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With an illustrious legacy of over 230 years, Girard-Perregaux are among the few brands that are in the upper echelons of the watchmaking business. From having the mechanical know-how to producing some of the best timepieces that stand out for their technical supremacy, Girard-Perregaux are also masters when it comes to unique designs that are probably as complex as their movements. Anyone who knows the brand well, would be familiar with their famed Bridges collection—a one-of-a-kind movement architecture built to resemble three overarching ‘bridges’, running horizontally across the watch dial. This was inspired by their legendary ‘La Esmeralda’ pocketwatch from 1889—crafted in solid gold, with an exquisitely-engraved hunter-style gold case with the crown at 12 o’clock. This tourbillon with three golden bridges was awarded the first prize at the Paris Universal Exhibition, and subsequently became the brand’s signature design, and one of the primary pillars to build on. In their expansive glorious watchmaking history, Girard-Perregaux have also constantly evolved to adapt this design to a more contemporary aesthetic that’s always in sync with the times. One of the more evolved iterations is their Neo Bridges line—which offers a more futuristic take on the traditional bridges structure, however not straying from their retro inspiration. First introduced in 2017 in a titanium case, and then another version—Earth to Sky, launched two years later, in the same material with a black DLC coating—reinforce the brand’s spirit of traditional Swiss watchmaking while keeping an eye on the future. Let’s take a closer look at some of the distinguishing features of these two Neo Bridges timepieces that perfectly bridge the past and present.
Greyscale: The Case
This line was first introduced in 2017 with a timepiece in a warm, grey titanium case measuring 45mm in diameter, with a thickness of only 12.18mm. And with a framework like that, it’s remarkable to see that there’s practically no bezel here. The case has a consistent satin-brushed finish, except for the top of the lugs, which are mirror polished. In the case of the Earth to Sky timekeeper, this titanium framework has been diligently coated with black DLC, which gives it a more modern and gothic appearance. DLC or diamond-like carbon treatment is a surface coating that consists of the deposition of carbon and diamond particles by a physical and chemical process. In addition to the black colour and its subtle anthracite grey reflections provided by the treatment, the multiple layers applied to the titanium ensure better protection of the case against corrosion, thereby making it one of the most useful innovations in the modern watchmaking landscape.
This model also reflects the theatrical nature of the creations by Jean-François Bautte—who, in the late 18th century, designed watchmaking instruments that adopted a playful approach to time display, demystified the passage of time and transforming watches into pure works of kinetic art. Both versions feature a domed sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective treatment on both sides and are water-resistant to 30m. The watches are presented on black leather straps, fitted with a triple-folding titanium clasp, adding a contemporary touch to the overall aesthetics.
Open-Worked Excellence: The Dial
Another distinguishing feature of the Neo Bridges timepiece is the absence of a typical dial. There is an inner grey ring that occupies the outer periphery of the dial, executed in a manner where one gets the impression that it is packing all the elements together. There are suspended indexes and a dot minute track on this ring as well. Most of the dial gives a generous peek into the movement and features a black-and-grey colour palette, with a layered construction that gives a certain depth when you first look at the watch. Here the baseplate of the movement also acts like the actual dial and forms the perfect backdrop for the balance wheel positioned at six o’clock, and the skeletonised hour and minute hands that are in sync with the overall aesthetics and blend with the symmetry of the other elements.
There is also a micro-rotor at 10 o’clock and a mainspring barrel located at two o’clock, but despite so many mechanics on display, the timekeeping function doesn’t get diluted, as the design ensures that it remains simple and easy to read for the wearer. One can also view the sandblasted, PVD-treated bridges, and it surely makes for a captivating construction. In the Earth to Sky model, there are also blue PVD inserts, which look great against the black DLC case. The box-type sapphire crystal glass specially developed for this model—requiring nearly ten times more material than usual—makes it possible to capture light and direct it towards the heart of the movement. One can also view the inner workings of this fascinating mechanism through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback on turning over the watch.
Dynamics Of Balance: The Movement
The Neo Bridges timepieces are driven by Girard-Perregaux’s in-house calibre GP-8400, an automatic movement composed of 208 components including 29 jewels, beating at a frequency of 21,600vph. While the tourbillon is absent here, as compared with the mechanism of the brand’s traditional tourbillon with three bridges, these models feature the balance wheel, 10.15mm in diameter, at the six o’clock position to pay homage to the original inspiration. Due to its size, it is subjected less to disturbances and is therefore more accurate. Perfectly symmetrical, thanks to the judicious alignment of the micro-rotor with the barrel drum ensuring a minimum 54-hour reserve, this movement instantly draws attention at the first glance. For the Earth to Sky reference, the architectural nature of the structure is reinforced by contemporary finishing including a blue PVD coating on the barrel cover and micro-rotor, as well as a black PVD treatment adorning the delicately curved bridges.
With the Neo Bridges collection, Girard-Perregaux have adopted a new approach to fine watchmaking without compromising on their traditional values. The timepieces explore the boundaries of the brand’s engineering expertise with the implementation of new materials and finishing techniques. It seamlessly blends two worlds, where tradition meets innovation, and with this evolution, Girard-Perregaux have completely widened the scope of interpreting timeless icons.