FeatureDreamin’ Of California Dials

Since its inception, the dial or face of a timepiece has held a prominent place in the art of watchmaking. It’s the first thing that captures the attention of an admirer. Encapsulated within a sturdy case and topped with a mineral glass or sapphire crystal, the dial is where the magic happens. Traditionally, a simple three-hand timekeeper features hands, and Roman or Arabic numerals on its dial, with or without a date complication. But, when it features a mix of both Roman and Arabic numerals, it’s called a California dial. In most cases, it showcases Roman numerals on top and Arabic numerals at the bottom. This art deco-inspired dial was first seen in the early 20th century Rolex and Panerai models. However, in those times, it wasn’t called the California dial. In fact, this term is merely a nickname or misnomer given to the half-Arabic, half-Roman dial design. So, how and why did this unique style acquire the name California dial? 

But, before this mystery is unfolded, here is the background on the advent of the so-called California dial. 

The Origin Story Of The California Dial

In the 1920s and ’30s, Swiss watchmakers Rolex were producing timepieces inspired by the Art Deco and Bauhaus movements. One of these timepieces was the Rolex ‘Bubbleback’ (1933 to the mid-1950s), featuring an upside-down triangle at 12 o’clock and rectangular indices at three, six, and nine. A combination of the Rolex ‘Oyster’ case and the brand’s first automatic ‘Perpetual’ movement, it was nicknamed the ‘Bubbleback’ by collectors owing to its bubble-like caseback that concealed the large automatic-winding rotor within. Its dial featured either applied or luminous Arabic or Roman numerals, or a combination of both—the one, two, 10, and 11 markers featured Roman numerals, while the four, five, seven, and eight markers featured Arabic numerals. According to the brand, this design divided the dial in two equal halves, thus aiding in greater legibility. Rolex named them the ‘error-proof’ or ‘high-visibility’ dials, along with getting them patented in the 1940s. Later, it laid the blueprint for some of the brand’s most iconic collections, such as the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and GMT-Master.

The other watchmakers who are largely associated with the introduction of the half-Arabic, half-Roman-style dial are the Italian brand with Swiss production, Panerai. Their Radiomir reference 3646, featuring a dial with a mix of Arabic and Roman numerals was the first diving tool watch to be ever made. Launched in 1944, it was built in collaboration with Rolex on a special commission from the Italian Royal Navy, during World War II. It featured a large cushion case measuring 47mm, along with luminescent numerals and indexes, filled with radium-based powder—hence the name Radiomir. This dial was later redesigned to feature four large Arabic numerals in the cardinal points and eight indexes at the hour markers—a dial design that can still be found on Radiomir and Luminor watches of today. At the time, the reference 3646, sans the brand logo, wasn’t available for the general public. Panerai relaunched it by the name of the Radiomir California Dial later. Its latest version is the slightly smaller reference PAM01349, in a case size of 45mm, yet giving a nod to its long-standing legacy. Of course newer versions do not have radium, which is no longer used in watchmaking.

In the early 20th century, neither Rolex nor Panerai called these watch dials with a mix of Roman and Arabic numerals the California dials. It earned this nickname later in the century by its true-blue collectors, or so they say. Here are the details.

California Dial: What’s In A Name?

While there are different stories that claim credit for introducing the name California dial, the most widely accepted narrative is related to the dial refinishing corporation in Los Angeles, California, known as Kirk Rich. The 1980s and early ’90s saw the raging popularity of vintage and Rolex watches. This was the time when the Rolex Bubbleback was gaining popularity among the collectors community. It was among the early ‘hype’ or ‘collectible’ watches. So much so, collectors were even willing to pay six-figure sums for rare Bubblebacks. 

Due to the increased demand for vintage watches, people began going to the local repair shops to clean and service old movements, but for dials, they had to resort to dial refinishers in California. This is where Kirk Rich came in. The LA-based dial refinishing corporation would not only ‘upbadge’ Tudor watches with Rolex logos, but would also notoriously transform standard dials into the more valuable half-Arabic, half-Roman variants. The rampant rise in doctored watches, featuring this dial design gave it the title of California dial, implying fake. Eventually, Kirk Rich discontinued this practice, and the half-Arabic, half-Roman style dial simply came to be known as the California dial.

Today, this distinctive dial design with its now popular nickname finds favour among contemporary brands, such as Nomos Glashütte, Bremont, and Alpina, to name a few. 

Launched in 2017, Nomos Glashütte's Club Campus series features Arabic numerals on top and Roman numerals at the bottom, with a small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock

Featured here is their Club Campus 38 Future Orange watch

Nomos Glashütte Club Shop the Collection

Continuing The Story Of The California Dial

One of the brands that incorporate the California dial into their watches are German watchmakers, Nomos Glashütte. Launched in 2017, their Club Campus series features Arabic numerals on top and Roman numerals at the bottom, with a small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock. Recently, they added two new colourways to this series—yellow for the Starlight edition and dark blue for the Night Sky. Available in two case sizes, 36mm and 38.5mm, these timepieces follow the same dial design as their predecessors.

Read more about these Nomos Club Campus models here

Another example is Armin Strom’s Tribute 1 California watches, launched in 2021. They feature a California-style dial created in a choice of five fumé colours, offering a striking contrast to the black guilloche plate. Showcased here is its Burgundy version, encased in a 38mm stainless steel case, with a water resistance of up to 50m. Limited to only 25 pieces, it is run by the manual winding AMW21 calibre, providing an impressive power reserve of approximately 100 hours. 

Armin Strom System 78

₹17,90,000

Check Our Selling Price

Other recent examples are the 41mm by 42.5mm Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic California Dial watch, with a date aperture at three o’clock, and the limited-edition Bremont Bamford Aurora (500 pieces only), with a luminous California sandwich dial design. 

Whether one wishes to refer to them as the half-Roman, half-Arabic dial, or an error-proof, or a high visibility dial, the name California dial has a ring that’s rather hard to forget. Team that with the iconic songs, ‘California dreamin’, ‘Hotel California’, and ‘Californication’, and you get a perfect recall value. Also, it’s just cooler. Don’t you think so?