Round-UpWonders Off-Site 2025: The Most Remarkable New Watches In Geneva This March-April

Bianchet B1.618 UltraFino

Bianchet’s new B1.618 UltraFino collection now features a new ultra-slim and ultra-light calibre, the UT01, designed using the Fibonacci sequence. Crafted from lightweight titanium, all aspects of the UT01 calibre—including bridges and rotor—employ the golden ratio for their design. The resulting movement is 3.85mm thick, and weighs only 8gm. While stunning to look at from both caseback and dial, the UT01 calibre also offers enhanced shock resistance and a more than decent power reserve of 60 hours. Housed in a titanium case with dimensions of 40mm by 47.39mm, the Bianchet B1.618 Ultra Fino wears well for its gentle and ergonomic curves. An integrated titanium bracelet or a sporty blue rubber strap flow from the tonneau case. The skeletonised dial version offers a view of the movement’s architecture, with intersecting spirals defining the grid. At six o’clock on the dial is a one-minute flying tourbillon.

Bovet Récital 30 Red Gold

Bovet unveiled their Récital 30 on March 30, 2025, the day we switch to daylight saving time. The timepiece adopts the award-winning world-time roller system of the previous iteration, Récital 28, displays 25 time zones (including New Delhi, India) while adjusting seamlessly for time changes. The Récital 30 can be adjusted to any of the four time periods of the year: UTC—Coordinated Universal Time; AST—American Summer Time; EAS—European and American Summer Time and EWT—European Winter Time. Located at the coaxial is a day/night indicator linked to the local home time. Bovet Récital 30 also debuts as the first specimen of the in-house case production. This watch is available in titanium and red gold variants.

Breitling Top Time B31

The first three hand edition of their motor-racing-inspired collection, this new novelty from Breitling’s Top Time collection comes in three colourways with complementing leather straps with racing-inspired perforation, or steel bracelets. Behind the dial in white and light blue, blue and white, or green and black is the brand’s first exclusive manufacture three-hand movement, the B31. This automatic movement comes with a free-sprung balance wheel, which helps the accuracy of this COSC-certified chronometer calibre, as all of Bretling’s calibres are. Meanwhile, a bidirectional-winding rotor helps the movement store up to 78 hours of power reserve. In addition to that, the tests the movement goes through includes extreme treatment that is equivalent to 16 years of use. At a very agreeable size of 38mm, these steel watches are a nice addition to the brand’s offering.

The first three hand edition of their motor-racing-inspired collection, this new novelty from Breitling’s Top Time collection comes in three colourways with matching leather straps with racing-inspired perforation

The brand’s first exclusive manufacture three-hand movement, the automatic B31 comes with a free-sprung balance wheel, and featured bidirectional winding which helps achieve the 78-hour power reserve

The dial comes in white and light blue, blue and white, or green and black

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Carl Suchy & Söhne X Eric Giroud Vienna

Viennese watchmaker Carl Suchy & Söhne have collaborated with watch designer Eric Giroud to showcase the minimal and elegant Vienna timepiece. An ode to the watch brand’s hometown, the Vienna watch is inspired by the city’s art, architecture and history. Crafted from 316L steel, the 39mm case is superbly finished, with a gently domed sapphire crystal glass over the dial. Its exhibition caseback reveals the ultra-thin, highly decorated and beautifully finished automatic movement CSS-V1 (calibre 5401), with a golden micro-rotor engraved with the crest of double griffins. The minimal dials—Day (white), Night (black and white) and Blue Danube (blue and white)—feature beautiful geometric lines that play with light, creating shadows across the dial. Rhodium plated hour and minute hands, and dot indexes on the flange are filled with Super-LumiNova. At six o’clock, is the rotating seconds disc, whose geometry contrasts with that of the dial. Viennese elegance meets quality Swiss craftsmanship in this tribute to the Austrian capital.

Doxa SUB 250T GMT Sharkhunter Vintage

After a 20-year sabbatical, Doxa bring back the dual time zone function with the all-new SUB 250T GMT. Released in nine distinct colours—Professional (orange), Divingstar (yellow), Sharkhunter (black), Caribbean (deep blue), Aquamarine (turquoise), Whitepearl (white), Sea Emerald (green), Searambler (silver), and Sharkhunter Vintage (gradient brown), a first for the brand—these editions are perfect for those who are always on the go and have a knack for adventure. Crafted from 316L stainless steel, the case measures 40mm, with a thickness of 10.85mm and a lug-to-lug length of 42.9mm, ensuring a water resistance of up to 250m. Underneath is the dial, featuring hour, minute, and seconds hand, along with a skeletonised GMT hand and a date aperture at three o’clock. The new Sharkhunter Vintage is an exception, featuring all-white hands and an arrow-style GMT hand with a red tip. It is powered by a Swiss automatic movement, with an energy reserve of 50 hours, and is presented either on an FKM rubber strap, matching the colour of the dial, or on Doxa’s stainless steel ‘beads of rice’ bracelet.

Doxa have released a new colour scheme with the Sharkhunter Vintage—a brown dial with a gradient finish. As a tribute to the earliest Sharkhunter models, this variant features all-white hands on its dial and an arrow-style GMT hand with a red tip

Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon Limited Edition

After the brand’s revival in 2024, Favre Leuba are expanding their Chief collection with their first-ever tourbillon. Housed in the distinctive 41mm cushion-shaped case, which draws from the brand’s past, is the Chief Tourbillon’s gorgeous with a texture that is triangle pattern taken from the brand’s hourglass emblem. This multi-level dial has a combination of matt and sunray brushed finishing on the embossed and debossed triangles. Adding further dimensionality is the 3D brand emblem in white. This texture looks rather splendid when viewed from different angles, as it nice frames the tourbillon case at six o’clock. With a blued seconds hand mounted on it, the tourbillon cage is held in place with a bridge that is complemented by the baton-shaped hands and hour markers. Running the show is a 60-hour manual-winding calibre decorated with various finishing, including an anthracite treatment and Geneva stripes. This edition is limited to just 25 pieces.

After the brand’s revival in 2024, Favre Leuba are expanding their Chief collection with their first-ever tourbillon, the Chief Tourbillon

Housed in the distinctive 41mm cushion-shaped case, which draws from the brand’s past, is the Chief Tourbillon’s gorgeous with a texture that is triangle pattern taken from the brand’s hourglass emblem

This multi-level dial has a combination of matt and sunray brushed finishing on the embossed and debossed triangles. Adding further dimensionality is the 3D brand emblem in white

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Jacob & Co World Is Yours Dual Time Zone Tourbillon

The piece de resistance of the Jacob & Co World Is Yours Dual Time Zone Tourbillon is the centrally located tourbillon that revolves once every 30 seconds—twice the speed of an average tourbillon. The tourbillon carriage bridge appears to be floating as it made from transparent sapphire, allowing the entire space to be occupied by another signature detail of the collection: the compass rose. Powering The Jacob & Co World Is Yours Dual Time Zone Tourbillon, is the new JCAA45 tourbillon movement, placed slightly off-centred. It consists of a micro-rotor and solid 950 platinum composition provides ample energy for optimal winding. The entire movement was designed to revolve around one single requirement: it had to sit in the middle of the movement.

Maurice Lacroix 1975 Collection Automatic

For their 50th anniversary celebrations, as a nod to the year the brand was born, Maurice Lacroix present the 1975 Collection. A line of dressy watches inspired by vintage watches, yet timeless in their aesthetic, the Maurice Lacroix 1975 Collection is sure to appeal to even a contemporary audience. Available in 36mm or 40mm steel cases, the 1975 Collection Automatic timepieces offer a water resistance of 100m. This is more than sturdy enough to handle the everyday splashes. The watches also display an alternating satin and brushed finishing for case and bracelet that belies the collection’s price point. Besides, the flexibility of easy interchangeability between steel bracelet and leather strap makes this collection relevant today. With sunray-brushed dial options in blue black and silver, the elegant watches feature contrasting rhodium indexes and hands, with a date window at three o’clock. Powered by the calibre 115, the collection offers a power reserve of 38 hours, and a view of the movement through the exhibition caseback.

A line of dressy watches inspired by vintage watches, yet timeless in their aesthetic, the Maurice Lacroix 1975 Collection is sure to appeal to even a contemporary audience for its versatility

Singer Reimagined Heritage Collection

The Heritage collection by Singer Reimagined is one of the most interesting launches of the season. It lives up to its name not only through its design language but also via the manual-winding, vintage Valjoux 236—a hi-beat column-wheel chronograph calibre from 1974. Beating at a frequency of 21,600vph, it offers a 48-hour power reserve. As part of the ‘New Old Stock’, these movements have been meticulously restored and finished in-house. Given that the collection is based on a vintage component, which is limited in existence, production is also restricted to just 100 pieces in 2025. Housed in a 38.8mm stainless steel case, it comes with two dial options: an Empire Green lacquered dial, and a Piano Black lacquered dial.

Urwerk UR-101 T-Rex

The Urwerk UR-101 T-Rex resurrects the brand’s first-ever timepiece from 1997 while cladding it in textured bronze scales that wouldn’t look out of place in a natural history museum. Its most striking feature is immediately apparent—the bronze case has been thoroughly transformed by an aggressive guilloché pattern. This scale-like pattern covers the bezel, case sides, and integrated lugs, creating a tactile experience that begs to be touched rather than merely observed. At 41mm across and 11.86mm thick, the dimensions represent a modest expansion from the 38mm original, yet the watch maintains remarkable wearability thanks to its thoughtfully curved case profile. It employs Urwerk’s signature wandering hours complication—a mechanical solution inspired by a 17th-century clock made for Pope Alexander VII, and houses the newly developed UR-1.01V calibre—an evolution of Urwerk’s satellite time display system. This automatic movement features 28 jewels and operates at 28,800vph with a 48-hour power reserve. The UR-101 T-Rex comes fitted with a black rubber strap featuring a textile-effect surface and calfskin leather lining, and is limited to 100 pieces only.