Round-UpA Comprehensive Guide To Building A Watch Collection Under INR 20 Lakh
Buying a wristwatch more often than not can be quite a confusing exercise, thanks to a plethora of brands and no dearth of options. The Watch Guide breaks it down for you, so that you’re able to build a complete watch collection while operating on a budget
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As the old adage goes, “Rome wasn’t built in a day”, and just like all good things take time to develop, an exceptional watch collection, too, is built over time after carefully considering every single purchase that lays the foundation. However, price is always one of the primary concerns when it comes to picking out a timepiece and one must carefully take into account exactly why one would like to buy a specific watch, while on a budget. Here are some of the top watches that one can consider if they are building a collection under Rs 20 lakh. We have tried to pick one each from broad segments, such as aviation, diving, world-time, chronograph, and a classic dress watch, so that that one is spoilt for choice—even with budget constraints.
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80
For those who prefer a sporty-yet-elegant watch that’s perfect for everyday wear, the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is probably your best bet. It is created for those who value design along with precision— hallmarks of a reliable Swiss watch and comes in a Tissot case shape design, borrowed from 1978. The timekeeper comes in a 40mm stainless-steel case that’s water-resistant to 100m. But apart from the sophisticated details that include a deep blue dial, what really makes this watch attractive is the fact it’s driven by the self-winding Powermatic 80 movement, which delivers reliability and precision, thanks to the innovative Nivachron hairspring. Packed with this generous power reserve, this watch is designed to keep up with hectic lifestyles and is complemented by a matching steel bracelet.
Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture
Dedicated to jet-setters and those bitten by the wanderlust bug, the Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Manufacture was first introduced in 2012. Since then, it has become one of the most sought-after pieces from the brand for its world-timer function indicated by a 24-hour disc. The model featured here comes in a 42mm stainless-steel case that is water-resistant to 50m. It displays a green dial with the world map in relief at the centre with luminous hour markers and hands. This simple and intuitive design allows the wearer to hop across time zones, without having to worry about setting the time. Here, the local time (indicated with the central hands) and home time (via the mobile flange) are automatically synchronised with each other. There’s also no need to make any extra effort to differentiate the day-time zones from the night-time zones: the two disc colours surrounding the globe (dark for the night, white for the day) naturally indicate them, by the two consecutive 12-hour segments opposite the reference cities in question. This has been made possible due to the in-house automatic FC-718 calibre with a 38-hour power reserve, where all indications are adjusted with the single crown, thanks to an ingenious three-notch system. The first winds the watch, the second adjusts the date (upwards) and the reference city (downwards), and the third adjusts the time in the central display. The movement is visible through the open caseback and one can admire the Côtes de Genève decoration and the oscillating weight with a satin finish.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronometer
First introduced in 1957, the Speedmaster Professional is probably one of the most famous chronographs in the world and enough has been written and documented about how it became an icon in the world of horology. The watch has evolved over the years in terms of materials, movement etc. but the brand have chosen not to tamper too much with the basic architecture. This version of the Moonwatch comes with a slightly thinner case than its previous models for better comfort and more compactness. This is also replete with Omega’s new-age bracelet, which is more flexible and has a thinner clasp. However, the biggest change is not in the looks of the timepiece but rather what’s inside. The watch manufacturer have equipped the Speedmaster with the all-new Master Chronometer calibre 3861. The COSC- and METAS-certified movement features all of the Omega’s technology, including a co-axial escapement, silicon parts for antimagnetic properties, and a stop-seconds mechanism. Running at 21,600vph, the calibre offers a power reserve of 50 hours.
Oris Aquis Date
Over the years, Oris have established a fine reputation of being dive watch specialists and their famed Aquis Date model has only helped strengthen this further. A robust and reliable dive timer, the Aquis Date offers exceptional functions at an affordable price point. This edition is available with a gorgeous blue dial, with indexes and the hands coated with Super-LumiNova for great legibility even in extremely low-light conditions. The unidirectional rotating bezel has a ceramic insert, which is virtually scratch-proof and fade-resistant. At 43.5mm, the stainless steel case suits the steadfast diver’s watch and the heavily knurled bezel can be operated even through a diver’s suit with extreme ease. Besides, it offers an impressive water resistance of up to 300m. It is driven by an automatic winding date movement—the Oris Calibre 733, which beats at 28,800vph and clocks in a power reserve of 38 hours. The movement can be seen through the transparent caseback, along with Oris’ signature red rotor. The solid steel bracelet completes the look of this watch.
Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41
Traditionally designed for pilots and professionals to help them with important calculations while controlling aircraft in the turbulent skies, aviator watches have come a long way and are no longer just limited to navigators. They have found a cult following among people who generally just enjoy the thrill of donning a watch with such a legacy. And when one talks of aviation, one surely can’t miss Breitling. Equipped with a rotating slide-rule bezel to offer numerous inflight calculations, the Breitling Navitimer soared in popularity, right after its launch in 1952. Over the years, the timepiece has witnessed various modifications to keep up with the demands of modern-day living and dynamic lifestyles. Refined and elegant, the Navitimer Automatic 41 launched in 2019, combines the historic appeal of a true icon with the sophistication of a contemporary timepiece. The model here is available in stainless steel with a blue dial, and is powered by the Breitling Calibre 17—a COSC-certified chronometer. While the original version was a chronograph, the new watches in this line are three-hand with Breitling’s familiar circular slide rule and distinctive beaded, bidirectional bezel. The automatic movement supplies a power reserve of approximately 38 hours, beating at a frequency of 28,800vph. Water-resistant to 30m, the watch is presented on a blue alligator leather strap.
Longines Master Collection Moonphase
Longines have been producing exceptional timepieces since time immemorial that stand true to their tagline, ‘Elegance is an attitude’. Launched in 2005, the Longines Master Collection, today, is the perfect illustration of this ethos. The watches in this collection exude a unisex vibe and are all powered by automatic movements equipped with special features. The 42mm stainless-steel model featured here comes with a moon phase complication and is the epitome of understated elegance. The traditional round case frames a dial sporting a silver-coloured barleycorn guilloche pattern, which is a hallmark of the Master range. The moon phase indicator at six looks stately and is surrounded by an analogue date display. Replete with a central, three-hand timekeeping system, the Master Collection Moonphase is driven by the self-winding mechanical movement, the L899 calibre. Beating at 25,200vph, it offers a minimum power reserve of 64 hours and has beautiful decoration on the rotor and the mainplate—making it a perfect option for a fine dress watch.