FeatureThe Biggest Trends That Emerged From Watches And Wonders And Geneva 2025

Before Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, there was already a lot of speculation on what the big trends were going to be. Several brands had already unveiled a few of the novelties they were going to showcase at the fair, and, given the launches over the few months leading up the Geneva event, one had a fair idea of what trends were going to remain strong. Here’s a look at some of the most prominent watch trends 2025 from Watches and Wonders Geneva and other showcases.

The top five watch trends 2025, from Watches and Wonders Geneva and more:

• Dials in stones, minerals and other unique materials
• Pastel shades and sandy hues continue
• Smaller case sizes
• Anniversary and collaboration editions
• Firsts in complications and innovation

Watch Trends 2025: Stone, Mineral And Other Dials

The use of stone on dials is not new. There have been stone dials off and on, with spurts in popularity, but mostly seen intermittently. Among the more common stones used for dials have been onyx and lapis lazuli, with some malachite and an occasional tiger’s eye. This year, there’s been a mix of the above, along with some others. Rolex, for instance had a GMT-Master II that has a dial in a tiger’s iron stone, which has a naturally occurring combination of three minerals—tiger’s eye, red jasper and hematite. (Assembled) combinations were also the order of the day for H. Moser & Cie, who unveiled their Endeavour Pop line, which included their Endeavour Small Seconds, Concept Tourbillon and Minute Repeater Tourbillon in various new hues. These hues were combinations of lemon chrysoprase, lapis lazuli, deep orange coral, turquoise, Burmese jade and pink opal.

The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Pop collection with various combinations of lemon chrysoprase, lapis lazuli, deep orange coral, turquoise, Burmese jade and pink opal

The new Zenith GFJ with lapis lazuli on the dial

The Gerald Charles Maestro 25th Anniversary with lapis lazuli on the dial

The Arnold & Son HMS with a fossil dial

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While much of jade hasn’t been seen lately, except from H. Moser themselves, in a recent Streamliner with a Wyoming jade dial, lapis lazuli has certainly seen a resurgence. The blue stone was seen on the dials of at least two other watches this Watches and Wonders. One was the all-new collection from Zenith, the elegant GFJ line, named after the brand’s founder’s initials, to mark 160 years of the brand. It features a dial with a centre in lapis lazuli, and an outer section with distinctive guilloche work. A similar dial was that of the Gerald Charles Maestro 25th anniversary edition, with a centre in lapis lazuli. Blue continued with aventurine—not the manufactured aventurine glass that is widely used in watches—but the mineral that inspires the glass with metallic specs. This was seen in a new edition of the MeisterSinger Pangea. What’s the benefit of the stone over the glass? It shimmers a lot more.

Finally, not quite a stone, but it could pass for one, was the material used for Arnold & Son’s new HMS. Made of real fossil, the greenish dial features a pattern that will be quite unique in every piece, which is the case in various mineral dials that one can come across. There will be more stone dials released later in the year, including dials in green malachite, which is again not a stranger to the world of watches.

Watch Trends 2025: Pastels And Sand Continue To Go Strong

From coloured stones to simple colours, there were some vibrant hues seen among the novelties of various brands. Blue is always strong—from the stone dials seen above to the blue ceramic anniversary edition from Zenith. Green also remained present, and purple grew this year, with fine examples such as the H. Moser Endeavour Concept Purple.

However, the colours that continued to grow in strength most of all were pastel hues and sand shades that can also be placed under pastels, along with the sand-adjacent coppery dials. While Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetuals have dials in lavender, beige and pistachio, MeisterSinger’s new Neo watches are in pale pink, mint green and sky blue. Sky blue was seen in Parmigiani’s new Toric Perpetual Calendar, which also comes in a gold/sandy hue. Sand and sand-adjacent hues were also seen in new releases from the likes of Baume & Mercier, Frederique Constant and Chronoswiss.

Watch Trends 2025: Small Goes Smaller

Every year people talk about smaller sizes being more popular. Some years, more than others, ‘smaller’ is a bigger topic of discussion, and 2025 is a year like that. There was a time when 45 and 46mm were coming down to 43 and 42mm. Then 40 and 41mm became the most popular sizes. Lately, we’ve seen more appreciation for 38 and 39mm, but this year, we’ve gone down to 35 and 34mm even. Rolex’s new Datejust 31 and Oyster Perpetual 28 are among the smallest sizes, but the Oyster Perpetual 36 is in the sweeter spot, size wise, with a far wider appeal, across those with petite as well as bigger wrists. IWC’s new Inegenieur has also come down to 35mm—which honestly looks great, especially the gold version. And then there’s Alpina’s new Tropic-Proof that’s down to 34mm and looks verry sophisticated and charming. Oris’s Big Crowns have also gone down to 34mm, just like the new Miss Piggy, also launched not too long ago.

The new IWC Ingenieur in gold

Alpina's Tropic-Proof

Oris's new Big Crowns at 34mm

₹1,90,000

Check Our Selling Price

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Watch Trends 2025: Anniversary And Collaboration Editions

It’s a year full of anniversaries—for brands and collections. Oris are marking 60 years of the Divers Sixty-Five, and they released a special anniversary edition, which is much closer in design to the 1965 edition than it is to the newer models from the collection. Hublot’s focus is completely on 20 years of the Big Bang, with models that celebrate all the elements and materials that have been the most popular in the collection since its inception. This includes their cases in sapphire crystal, which have been an achievement in colour. There’s a special edition of five Big Bangs in five different hues of the scratch-resistant material, which comes as a set, which, apparently, must be purchased together.

And then there are brands themselves celebrating major milestones. Zenith’s 160th year brings with it a new collection called the GFJ, named after their founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, along with special blue ceramic editions of their most popular chronographs, including those from the Chronomaster and Defy Skyline. Why blue? It was Favre-Jacot’s favourite colour. Maurice Lacroix also marked 50 years of the brand, with not just a very elaborate exhibition in the city outside the fair, but also with a brand-new collection—1975, which was the year of brand’s founding. This line of elegant dress watches is a complete departure from the Aikon line, and the Pontos collection as well, which has lately become sportier than it was before.

Meanwhile, collaboration pieces are going strong this year as well. Louis Erard have had several collaborative editions in the past years, and this year too, they had a special-edition Régulateur, made with a dial in Damascus steel, in collaboration with GoS and Patrik Sjögren from GoS, who specialises in the craft of creating such textures with metals. Louis Erard’s long-time collaborator Alain Silberstein joined hands this year with MeisterSinger to create a special edition of their Kaenos collection—also launched thus year—adding his unique design touch to the collaborative watches. On the other hand, Jacob & Co unveiled the new World is Yours Salman Khan edition, made in collaboration with the actor and the brand’s long-time friend. These were just a few of the special editions we saw at the fair.

Watch Trends 2025: Firsts In Complications And Innovation

Another new novelty from the house of Jacob & Co was the world’s first four-axis tourbillon—the impressive Astronomia Revolution Fourth Dimension that operates with constant force, which itself if a watchmaking achievement. With the first tourbillon in their signature collection, Czapek unveiled the Antarctique Tourbillon in three colourways. A bigger tourbillon first was the Chief Tourbillon from Favre Leuba—their first ever tourbillon in the brand’s 288 years of existence.

Jacob & Co's Astronomia Revolution Fourth Dimension

The new Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon

It was raining tourbillons with Bulgari’s 10th world record in slimness—the world’s slimmest tourbillon watch ever, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, at just 1.85mm thick. A tourbillon innovation of a different kind was IWC’s with their new Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL. This is a follow up of their time-only debut of the Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL, which used a ‘SRIN-G’ protect system—made from bulk metallic glass—and featured a flexible coupling between the crown and the movement. This heavy-duty shock absorption system has now been incorporated into the new tourbillon edition that also has an open-worked display.

Among other complication firsts were the new Nomos Club Sport Worldtimer in six different colourways, Raymond Weil’s new Freelancer Triple Calendar, and Bremont’s new Terra Nova Jumping Hours in bronze. However, one of the most impressive innovations seen at Watches and Wonders was one of Grand Seiko’s—the Spring Drive UFA. The UFA in that stands for ‘Ultra-Fine Accuracy’ and refers to the calibre 9RB2’s supreme accuracy, with a maximum possible timekeeping deviation of 20 seconds, give or take, not monthly or weekly, but annually. To give context, for a movement to be certified by COSC as a chronometer, it must be accurate with a maximum deviation of -4 to +6 seconds per day.