SpotlightEast Meets West: Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship Urushi GMT Timepiece Bridges Two Worlds

Time is a funny thing. In the span it takes to craft a single Urushi lacquer dial, with its meticulous layering and polishing, you could likely circumnavigate the globe, hopscotching across time zones and continents. Seiko’s latest offering, the Presage Craftsmanship Urushi GMT SPB447J1, embodies this paradox. It’s a timepiece that marries the patient artistry of traditional Japanese lacquerwork with the needs of the global traveller in mind.

Since its debut in 2016, the Presage line has been Seiko’s horological love letter to Japanese artisanship. We’ve seen dials crafted from Arita porcelain, adorned with Shippo enamel, and now, once again, lacquered with Urushi. With the introduction of the GMT function to their Urushi lacquer model, Seiko is no longer content with merely preserving ancient techniques. Instead, they’re proving that these time-honoured crafts can be as functional as they are beautiful, seamlessly blending the aesthetics of the past with the needs of the present.

The Art Of Urushi

The star of the show is undoubtedly the dial. Urushi, a lacquer derived from the sap of the urushi tree, has been used in Japanese decorative arts for centuries. The process is painstaking: layer upon layer of lacquer is applied, each allowed to dry before being meticulously polished. The result is a surface so deep and glossy it’s like staring into a black mirror. All of this under the masterful eye of lacquer artist Isshu Tamura, whose expertise ensures that each dial is a work of art in its own right.

This isn’t just aesthetic showboating, though. The inky backdrop provides the perfect contrast for the watch’s golden GMT hand and 24-hour scale, ensuring legibility without sacrificing style. 

The Case: Form And Function

The 40.2mm x 12.5mm stainless-steel case strikes a balance between presence and wearability. It’s substantial enough to be noticed but refined enough to slip under a cuff without fuss. The dual-curved sapphire crystal adds a touch of elegance while providing durability, and the 100m water resistance means you won’t have to babysit this piece during your travels.

The star of the show is undoubtedly the dial. Urushi, a lacquer derived from the sap of the urushi tree, has been used in Japanese decorative arts for centuries

The case design follows an understated elegance, with lines that are clean and purposeful. This restraint allows the dial to take centre stage while still providing a robust housing for the movement. The polished and brushed finishes are executed with the attention to detail we’ve come to expect from Seiko.

Under The Hood: The Heart Of The Matter

At the core of the Presage Urushi GMT beats Seiko’s Calibre 6R54. This automatic movement boasts a 72-hour power reserve. The GMT function is of the ‘caller’ variety, meaning the local hour hand can be adjusted independently—a practical choice for frequent travellers.

While its stated accuracy of -15/+25 seconds per day may not rival chronometer standards, it’s a robust and reliable engine that aligns with the watch’s blend of artistry and functionality. The movement is visible through a display caseback, offering a glimpse into the mechanical heart of the timepiece. It’s not elaborately decorated, but there’s a certain beauty in its utilitarian design that complements the watch’s overall ethos.

The fusion of artisanal techniques and practical complications opens up exciting possibilities for the future of the Presage line

Sustainability In The Details

The strap deserves more than a passing mention. Crafted from brown calf leather with gold stitching, it perfectly complements the dial’s depth and the case’s refinement. More importantly, it’s sourced from a tannery certified by the Leather Working Group—a nod to Seiko’s commitment to sustainability.

A New Direction For Craft Watches

What Seiko has accomplished with the Presage Urushi GMT goes beyond simply adding a complication to an existing line. They’ve created a watch that challenges our expectations of what a ‘craft’ timepiece can be. This fusion of artisanal techniques and practical complications opens up exciting possibilities for the future of the Presage line. A world timer with an Arita porcelain dial? A chronograph with Shippo enamel sub-dials? The imagination runs wild…