SpotlightJaeger-LeCoultre Unveils Exceptionally Complicated Novelties At SIHH 2019
Jaeger-LeCoultre demonstrates its mastery of a remarkably high number of traditional watchmaking crafts through its new timepieces at SIHH. And they remind us that from complications to finishes to artful embellishments, all the magic happens in-house under its roof in the Vall'e de Joux
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Ones in the know in the watch world are aware of how quietly Jaeger-LeCoultre goes about its business, and the respect the brand commands is, in some ways, unparalleled. This comes from their traditionalism and penchant for making robust, innovative movements that have gone into some of the most iconic watches in history.
It seems like Jaeger-LeCoultre’s theme this year is to showcase diverse skill sets of in-house artisans and how beautifully craft and complications are brought together in their watches. Enamelling, guilloché, gem-setting and engraving, among other micro-arts are on proud display in their immensely beautiful new releases.
Hybris Mechanica Grand Complication
The Hybris Mechanica collection represents the most complex, advanced mechanical watches created by Jaeger. Each piece in this line represents serious horological firepower. The new edition announced at SIHH 2019 is called the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpétuel, that incorporates a perpetual calendar, minute repeater with Westminster chimes and a multi-axis tourbillon. It represents the highest kind of accuracy and complexity while managing to package it all into a case that is 43mm wide and 14mm thick. Such wearable dimensions are highly uncommon in halo pieces like these, but then you wouldn’t expect any less from Jaeger-LeCoultre either.
Each of the three key elements of the watch—perpetual calendar, minute repeater and tourbillon—have been given updates that are rarities and really raise the stature of an already astounding watch. The perpetual calendar can be set forwards and backwards both, thereby preventing any damage to the mechanism while setting; the minute repeater has four gongs that chime the Westminster carillon to indicate the quarter hours; the tourbillon is multi-axis and incorporates a constant force mechanism for steady amplitude, resulting in more accurate timekeeping. This is really the highest level of classical watchmaking that exists in the world today.
Master Ultra Thin
The Master collection is where Jaeger-LeCoultre’s timeless elegance shines through. Whether simple or complicated, the watches typically have restrained design and a classic aesthetic. A trio of new Master Ultra Thin (MUT) releases has flipped this philosophy on its head. The Tourbillon, Perpetual and Moon MUT launches come with blue enamel dials that have a sunray guilloché done by hand.
The glimmer and glamour of these enamel dials and the Métiers, or crafts, employed on this watch make it stand out from anything else we’ve seen from the brand in recent times.
All watches come with in-house Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic movements, of course, that have been reworked to increase the power reserve. The Perpetual and Moon have 39mm by 10mm white gold cases and 70-hour power reserves, and each is a 100 piece limited edition. The Tourbillon has a 40mm by 12mm white gold case, 48-hour power reserve and is a 50 piece limited edition.
Rendez-Vous Models For The Ladies
This year’s announcement of new jewellery pieces in the Rendez-Vous collection for ladies, provide a peek into another in-house craft at Jaeger-LeCoultre—gem-setting. The Jewellery models come with either a day/night indicator or a moonphase on mother of pearl dials, available in 36mm white gold cases. Additionally, the Night & Day model comes in a pink gold option as well. They are each set with 186 diamonds in two lines around the bezel, inside the dial and on the lugs.
Between the numerals, the iridescence of the dial and brilliant stones, there is a lot of visual harmony in all the elements. It is a big design victory when one element works to highlight another, and you see that interplay beautifully on these watches. It must also be said here that the art deco numerals Jaeger-LeCoultre used across the Rendez-Vous line really add an element of whimsy, while stylistically they feel so refined. They allow the dial to remain in focus as a means of telling time, without it becoming purely a canvas for embellishment.
Reverso
You can’t leave the Reverso out of a conversation about Jaeger-LeCoultre. It is undoubtedly their most recognisable watch and the reversible case for polo players was a true innovation when it came out in 1931. While the collection is not the focus at SIHH, there are new noteworthy introductions. The real eye-catcher is the new Tribute Small Seconds with a deep, luscious wine-red dial. The dial is uncluttered and has design elements that connect it with its origins. The case, too, is dimensionally similar to the 80th anniversary Tribute to 1931 model, which is a favourite with purists.
There is also a Tribute Duoface with a blue dial, where the front side is the same as the Tribute Small Seconds, while the reverse side has overlapping small dials for seconds and hour-minutes, along with a day-night indicator. Both models have hand wound movements and are fitted with handmade leather straps designed by Argentinian bootmaker Casa Fagliano, with a signature lip near the lugs.
Given that Jaeger-LeCoultre is almost a 200-year-old manufacture, called the ‘Watchmaker to the Watchmakers’, it could feel at times that it doesn’t get the credit it deserves. But the releases this year are sure to turn heads as they very striking; where you can like them or dislike them, but you can’t ignore them.
Amish Behl is India’s first Watch Expert, certified by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), Switzerland. He is a watch specialist and collector based in New Delhi, deeply passionate about the art and history of timekeeping. Behl is also the founder of Definitely Curry, a digital publication about modern ‘made in India’.
