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ReviewThe Zenith Defy El Primero 21: Ever Distinct, Ever Defiant

The Defy El Primero 21, with its revolutionary movement capable of measuring 1/100th of a second, keeps Zenith a few steps ahead of its competitors and ensures that the famed El Primero movement is catapulted to the 21st century

Priyam Bagga September 27, 2019

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The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 is a chronograph meant for those who believe in precision, craftsmanship and defying norms

An Illustrious Past

For the uninitiated, Zenith has had quite a scintillating past when it comes to its renowned El Primero movement. Here’s the gist: it was in 1969 that Zenith’s El Primero movement was designed. Translating to ‘the first’ in Spanish, this was indeed among the first automatic chronographs to hit the market, and it was capable of measuring timing with a hitherto unheard of and unprecedented precision of 1/10th of a second. Its competitors—namely Seiko and ‘Project 99’, which included (without the ‘TAG’) Heuer, Hamilton and Breitling—had created impressive chronographs themselves. However, the El Primero beat at a whopping 36,600vph (vibrations per hour), or 5Hz, resulting in the aforementioned precision in timekeeping. For those interested in reading more about this movement’s fascinating history and the leaps and bounds it took to get where it is today, this story should start you off nicely. Incidentally, Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of the first El Primero movement this year itself.

The Impressive Present

It was in 2017 that the El Primero was brought into the 21st century. The brand introduced the world to the Defy El Primero 21. You’d think that with a repertoire as impressive as what the El Primero collection already has, another iteration just stretches it, but you’d be wrong. Because there is something absolutely exceptional about the Defy El Primero 21.

There is a 60-second counter at six o’clock, a 30-minute counter at three o’clock and a central chronograph hand. You might think that this is as far from exceptional as can be, right? That’s until you learn how this chronograph measures 1/100th of a second! This is accomplished by a brand new iteration of the El Primero—the COSC-certified El Primero 9004 automatic calibre—which has a separate mainspring and balance wheel for the 1/100th-of-a-second timer. The timekeeping escapement beats at 36,000vph, while the second escapement, which powers the chronograph, vibrates at 50Hz or 3,60,000vph (no, there are no typos here)! When the chronograph is activated, the central hand completes a rotation every second, making 100 stops along the way! Of course, these stops are indistinguishable by the human eye but it’s a mechanical marvel that displays superlative craftsmanship and tests uncharted waters—all in a winsome package that is bound to have many takers.

Zenith Defy

What’s interesting about the El Primero 21 is that the balance springs are made from a carbon-matrix carbon nanotubes composite. This ensures that the timepiece has greater resistance against magnetism and changes in temperature. The durable calibre offers a minimum power reserve of 50 hours, which is helpfully displayed on the dial. The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 timepieces are water resistant to up to 100m.

The Many Shades of the Defy El Primero 21

The watch has been fashioned into several glorious avatars, one more eye-catching than the next—all with a signature skeletonised dial, with coloured accents, which makes them distinctive. Each version is superbly crafted in a 44mm round case with angular lugs, giving it a chunky, masculine appearance. One of the titanium variants comes equipped with a black rubber strap with a black alligator leather coating, keeping things formal and elegant. The next one in titanium is a beautiful blue number, for those who’d like all eyes on their wrist thanks to the bright pop of colour. While it has the same brushed titanium case, the accents on the movement inside are a vivid blue, as is the strap.

Zenith Defy

Another variant is a quietly powerful-looking timepiece whose case is made with black ceramic. The watch is equipped with a black rubber strap that comes with black alligator leather coating, giving it a sophisticated appeal that is incomparable. The same black ceramic case also comes affixed with a ceramic bracelet for those looking for a sporty version of the timepiece, yet one that will also pair wonderfully with formal attire. The dark appearance of this watch lends it an air of seriousness, modernity and sophistication.

The most enticing variants of the lot—meant for those who like a little bling on their wrist—comes in an 18-karat rose gold case, fitted with a strap in black. Its suave charm and luxe appearance make it suitable as a dress watch, but because of its sporty character, it can still be worn on any occasion.

Zenith Defy

An Unstoppable Force

So what does the future of the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 look like? As Zenith’s CEO, Julien Tornare, explained to The Watch Guide in an interview, “We’re working on one super high-complication piece. We’re working on emphasising again the Defy 21. It will have a lot of developments to come, because it’s a watch that people like so much. You know that people don’t really use chronographs to measure things now. But in the Defy 21, when you press the button, it goes so fast that it almost feels like a toy. People press it to show it to others. And that’s important. There’s animation that makes the product fun to look at, and enjoy. These are beautiful watches. People like it when they have watches that can surprise their friends and people around them. That’s not something that we should underestimate. And we will continue to make things that are intriguing.”

Though the Defy El Primero 21 looks to the past for inspiration, its eyes are set unwaveringly towards the future. In Mr Tornare’s words, “We need to show that the industry is creative, innovative and super dynamic—from products and campaigns to social media and events. The Swiss watch industry turns to the past a lot, and even repeats the past. And if we keep doing this, I think there is a risk that it will become a museum industry. And that’s not what we want. At Zenith, we respect our 154 years of history, but we look to the future. Just because we’re over 150 years old doesn’t mean we’ll dress like a grandmother.”

Final Thoughts

For those who like their chronographs to have a little pizzazz, the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 is the perfect answer. Running inside is watchmaking technology that is light years ahead of its peers and outside is a design aesthetic that is distinctive and, at the same time, irreverent. Defying odds and expectations since its very inception, this timepiece is another ode to Zenith’s ingenuity and zest to be exceptional.