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SpotlightA Gentleman’s Guide To Pairing Watches With Traditional Indian Wear

In this season of festivities and weddings, gentlemen can get their choices in watches right as we present a comprehensive guide on pairing timepieces with traditional Indian attire, based on classic and contemporary style recommendations from ace designer Raghavendra Rathore

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Traditional Indian dressing for men can pose quite a conundrum, especially with accessorising and putting just the right timepiece on your wrist. The thing is, traditional wear is often on that thin line between casual and formal, and dressing choices aren’t always obvious. A leather-strap dress watch may be perfect for a classic black bandhgala. But what if there’s a little colour on the collar or detailing on the cuffs? Bring in some embroidery or a weave, and that changes everything. A watch in steel or gold with a black leather strap isn’t a given anymore. And then there’s the kurta, which is arguably the most widely chosen garment in Indian wear. A beige or neutral-coloured look might be easy to accessorise, but that wouldn’t be the case with a richer palette. Here’s a look at the most prominent trends of the season and how best to pair your watches with them, with inputs and advice from designer, Raghavendra Rathore.

Talking Trends

Various occasions such as a cards party around Diwali, or a wedding-related sangeet, or cocktail soirée with an Indian theme, provide the opportunity to sport various kinds of outfits. “There should always be a wide variety of silhouette offerings,” says Raghavendra Rathore. The more fluid form of a kurta can be complemented with the structure of a waistcoat, which would also give it a dressier edge that is much needed for certain events. “Bandhgalas, achkans or sherwanis should be chosen appropriately and specific to every occasion,” Rathore adds. A designer par excellence, Rathore has been among the most prominent names that have drawn attention to India’s rich legacy in garments in the designer-wear space. Heavily influenced by his hometown of Jodhpur and his royal roots, he has helped keep classic Indian menswear relevant. Jodhpurs or breeches, which originated as pants for riding, are among such garments that always make an impression.

Festive
Keep it subtle and understated with embroidery and detailing this season. You can coordinate or contrast colours, but with some thought behind it. The prominent colours this season include jewel tones and rich Indian hues of purple and pink.

Traditional wear without tradition dilutes the impact of a look, so it would be suitable to steer clear of new-age and fusion wear for traditional or Indian-themed events. You can, however, bring in some detailing, though with some restraint. “Texture and embroidery should be subtle and not very overpowering,” Rathore suggests. But when it comes to colour, you can explore the spectrum a little more. “Colour contrasting or colour coordination can both work well even in rich colour tones to emulate a strong look.” He also speaks of this season’s palette, “Jewel tones and rich Indian hues of purple and pink are the more prominent colours.”

The Essential Accessory

“A watch is a reflection of one’s character and personal sense of style. It also says a lot about the aesthetics and taste of every individual,” Rathore declares, “It is the most essential accessory—one that could make or break an outfit.” As one of the very few accessories men can sport, it’s essential to get the watch right in a look. A watch can simply enhance your look, or completely uplift it, if it’s a statement piece. “A watch, if combined right, accentuates every ensemble and adds a touch of charisma and charm to one’s personality,” states Rathore. “It can make an outfit look timeless, and at the same time very youthful and contemporary.”

Festive
Balance is key to getting a look right. For instance, a skeleton watch can be your statement piece for a simple, neutral-toned or pastel look. This Rado True Open Heart watch can be your answer. Set in a 40mm black ceramic case, the automatic movement beating within can be seen through the open-worked display, also featuring just the right amount of gold in its accents.

However, it’s not only about the look or the style that a watch reflects. In fact, even Rathore values the qualities of good watchmaking. “The most prominent styles in watches have always been focused on traditional strengths: precision, quality, design and a perfect finish, with great emphasis on the artisanal craft,” he says. “Attention to detail and a good balance in design are key ingredients to make it a significant style.” Even the movement makes a difference, in Rathore’s opinion. “Mechanical watches are usually creations to look out for and hold value.”

Get The Look Right

As for the look, Rathore believes that balance is key. “It’s important to balance design in every way while choosing an outfit.” He expounds, “A classic choice is versatile and elegant, but mixing things up with subtle choice and an experimental one could work well if combined well, using careful thinking.” For instance, a slightly sportier strap can go with a traditional look if the colour complements rather than offers contrast. A watch with an edgy design can go well with a simple look that doesn’t flaunt too many elements. And a skeleton watch can be your statement piece for a neutral-toned or pastel look.

Festive
Tread carefully with sportier styles. You could go sporty with your watch on a traditional look, but choose to complement with colours rather than opting for contrast. This look would go well with the IWC Pilot Mark VIII in a 41mm black ceramic case with a soft grey textured leather strap. This aviation watch runs on an automatic movement, offering a 42-hour power reserve.

A little bling might be a tempting choice for some, with weddings and festivities raging on, but it’s advisable to not go overboard. “Too many stones embedded in watches may seem a bit over the top for men.” Rathore recommends, “Preferably, I would always imagine and appreciate the classic vintage appeal for such an accessory.” Especially with classic attire such as bandhgalas and Jodhpurs, it’s best to keep the watch elegant and sober. “Classic retro designs also capture attention because of their simple beauty,” Rathore states. Among the brands that Rathore specifically recommends are, “Bulgari, Audemars Piguet, and Baume & Mercier… These are just to name a few brands that focus on a wide variety of collections that cater to Indian wear,” he concludes.

Festive
With kurtas, Rathore recommends, “Classic metal straps and a fuss-free look.” This Bulgari Octo Roma in steel and rose gold features a classic metal bracelet, but with a contemporary, chiselled look. Set in the 41mm case is an automatic movement behind a rich, brown dial that can complement maroons as well as lighter tones such as beige.
Festive
For a bandhgala, “A chunkier, mechanical, well-designed watch is the way to go,” suggests Rathore. The Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic fits the bill perfectly. The fuller look of the signature Panerai design is offset by the slimmer profile of Luminor Due steel case in 42mm, making it quite comfortable even. The automatic movement offers hours, minutes and small seconds.
Festive
When it comes to achkans and sherwanis, you can’t go wrong with “a leather strap in classic style,” as Rathore avers. This Baume & Mercier Clifton timepiece is just right for this look, with its brown leather strap and 41mm steel case that is fitted with a white dial featuring gold-hued details. The automatic movement within offers a power reserve of 38 hours.
Festive
While sporting Jodhpurs or breeches, opt for “a more retro, sporty-looking design,” Rathore advises. And what could be a more fitting combination than breeches and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso—both having their roots in equestrian activities. This Reverso is powered by a Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic calibre housed within the steel case in 47mm by 28.3mm. On the reverse is another dial for an additional time zone display.

Just bear in mind all these style essentials as you prepare for the festivities of the season with sophistication. And always remember—it’s all about elegant harmony and balance between all the elements.

1 comments
  • Anish Kumar October 19, 2018 at 3:53 pm

    Looking forward for paneri watches

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