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Round-UpPresenting 10 Well-Designed Nomos Timepieces That Exhibit Pure German Watchmaking

Urbanely clean and understated, Nomos timepieces remain a symbol of the famed Glashütte watchmaking industry in Germany. Inspired by tradition yet breaking new grounds with its own in-house movements, this brand’s superlative artisanship is a result of the Deutscher Werkbund aesthetic, where art is discreet and highly detailed

The Watch Guide June 9, 2021

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Raising the bar of fine watchmaking ever since Roland Schwertner founded it after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Nomos fits perfectly in the time-honoured tradition of Glashütte watchmaking. Its enduring designs present a fresh, modern take, while also being quite accessible. While many may confuse its designs to the minimal aesthetic of the venerated German Bauhaus school, it is, in fact, its predecessor Deutscher Werkbund that governs the Nomos Glashütte credo. Using the ‘form follows function’ and ‘less is more’ design approach in tandem with innovative technology, this brand has been honoured with numerous coveted design awards—the Good Design Award, Red Dot Award, iF Design Award, Green Product Award, Goldene Unruh, to name a few.

In a tête-à-tête with The Watch Guide, when we asked Judith Borowski, Nomos’ chief branding officer about the true values of watchmaking, she averred, “Quality, quality, quality! You’ve got to have a watch you can rely on, the best materials and the best design, and everything. Usually, people wear their watches every day and they want to keep them for a lifetime. It’s not a fashion thing for me but something that has to last for a long time.” Borowski highlights another unique factor for the special status of Nomos: “It’s a good idea to invest in a watch made in Germany, which will be of high quality, with German engineering and craftsmanship. German product design means watches with a minimalistic look. It’s definitely cost-effective since Swiss watches of the same quality are more expensive.” While all their timepieces are assembled in Glashütte, they are designed in Berlin at the in-house studio, Berlinblau. Here are 10 finest Nomos timepieces with in-house movements that epitomise German watchmaking at its best.

Tangomat Date

With its case size of 38.3mm, this automatic timepiece in the Tangomat collection contains the in-house calibre DUW 5101, offering a power reserve of at least 42 hours. The movement’s rotor winds in two directions and you can clearly see the 26 jewels through its sapphire crystal glass caseback. With a galvanised white silver-plated dial featuring tempered blue, stainless steel hour and minute hands, this timepiece also has a small seconds sub-dial for a neat look. Right below that is a rectangular date window at six o’clock. Its Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather strap looks perfect with just about any attire. Moreover, its flat sapphire crystal glass is resilient to scratches, while the watch itself is water-resistant to 30m.

Orion Neomatik 41 Date

This automatic timepiece features the renowned neomatik calibre, the DUW 6101 movement, which is remarkably 3.6mm in height. This movement perfectly fits in the 40.5mm of this timepiece. Its elegant hour markers contrast effortlessly with the blue hour and minute hands on the white dial with silver plating. The additional sub-dial with a blue seconds hand in the six o’clock position and the legible date window at the three o’clock position make the watch look quite elegant. The black leather strap is another cool addition. You can see the movement through the transparent caseback. This is a modish yet robust timepiece. Not only does it have a sapphire crystal glass, but it also an anti-reflective coating on both sides so that the sun’s reflected glare won’t affect its visibility. Furthermore, while this Nomos timepiece is water-resistant up to 50m.

Nomos Glashutte Orion

Autobahn Neomatik 41 Date

Featuring the famed DUW 6101 self-winding movement, this timepiece is as practical as it is modish. The suave blue hue on the dial with a semi-circular ring in Super-LumiNova coating below the hour markers accompanies the hour hand with blue luminescent coating. The slender red-tipped minute hand and its immersed sub-dial on the six o’clock position with the red seconds hand exude a sporty yet sophisticated vibe. While the hour markers follow the Bauhaus typography usually seen in Nomos watches, the small linear indexes with minute numerals towards the inner edge make it clearly visible. The extended date window below the seconds sub-dial displaying the preceding, present and succeeding dates is also quite legible. The raised sapphire crystal glass with two antireflective coats is a nice feature while the 41mm stainless steel case with a two-part sapphire crystal glass will let you see the 27 jewels and the blue screws. Water resistant up to 100m, this watch sports a complementing dark blue NATO strap.

Metro 38 Date

Launched in 2014, Nomos’ Metro watches have a modern architecture despite the traditional round case, a relatively uncluttered dial and a manual-winding movement. With a perfect round case and straight lugs, the design instantly grab attention when you first glance at the Metro 38 Date timepiece. The sophisticated dial features a rectangular date window positioned at six o’clock, and slightly above that, the small seconds sub-dial with a bright red hand. The models here feature a silver or grey dial, packed in a 38.5mm stainless steel case. The watch has an elegant, slim bezel, and a crown with fine diamond knurling. The perfect dots as the minute markers are pretty distinctive and give the watch its identity—especially the blue indexes at three, nine and 12 o’clock. This fine timekeeper is brought to life by the manual-winding calibre DUW 4101—with the brand’s proprietary ‘swing system’ escapement. Beating at a frequency of 21,600vph, this mechanism is also visible through the sapphire crystal caseback and is finely decorated keeping in line with Glashütte’s horology traditions. It consists of 23 jewels and can function for at least 42 hours. Water-resistant to 30m, the Metro 38 Date watch is presented on a black leather strap that enhances its appeal.

Nomos Metro Shop the Collection

Ahoi Atlantic

As the name suggests, this 40mm automatic watch’s dial is inspired by the blue of the Atlantic Ocean. This timepiece with a sapphire crystal dial is water-resistant up to 200m and is perfect for those who live by the sea where taking a shallow dive is a regular activity. The striking golden colour on the hour and minute hands with the dark grey Super-LumiNova coat, and the small seconds hand in red on the sub-dial in the six o’clock position look simply stunning. It features a DUW 5001 movement, which is also made and patented by Nomos, and it comes with a durable textile strap in dark black and blue that is also resistant to water.

Tangente Neomatik 39

Fitted with the DUW 3001 movement, this 38. 5mm watch with a finely brushed silver dial has a highly subtle appeal, combined with the blue hour and minute hands. Not only is it ultra-thin with the 7.2mm of height but it also has a sturdy sapphire crystal glass that can easily withstand scratches. Its leather strap comes in black, which makes this timepiece suitable for formal attire.

Fitted with the DUW 3001 movement, this 38. 5mm watch with a finely brushed silver dial has a highly subtle appeal, combined with the blue hour and minute hands

Club

One of the most versatile timepieces from the German watchmaker, the Nomos Club is an ideal companion for your wrist. Whether you’re in the sporting arena, or in a boardroom cracking an important deal, or simply relaxing with friends on a weekend—this watch will never let you down. Here, the models featured are: Club Campus Neomatik 39 with white or blue dials, and the Club Neomatik Siren White 37mm—a part of their Aqua series. Designed to enthrall younger horology enthusiasts, these timepieces are equipped with the in-house DUW 3001 automatic movement, replete with the brand’s proprietary escapement—the Nomos swing system—introduced in 2014. This tiny mechanism is lighter than a feather but high on precision. With a power reserve of 43 hours, the movement is housed in a round stainless steel case, and is presented on a sleek matching bracelet or a blue fabric strap for the Club Campus Neomatik 39 versions, with solid steel casebacks. Their dials flaunt a classic vibe with a mix of Arabic and Roman numerals and indexes, coated with Super-LumiNova. The Neomatik Siren offers a water resistance of up to 200m and is attached to a white fabric strap. Here, the automatic movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. There’s also Club Sport Neomatik 42 Date—a larger variant in the collection, which is water-resistant to 30m. Crafted entirely in stainless steel, this watch is powered by the in-house calibre DUW 6101 that stands out for its exceptional accuracy, and supplies a power reserve of at least 42 hours. This sporty watch stands out on the wrist with its galvanised black dial, which complements the bracelet composed of 145 steel pieces screwed together.

The Club Campus Neomatik 39 with a blue dial features golden coloured hour, minute and seconds hands, and is presented on a blue fabric strap
The Club Campus Neomatik 39 with a white dial is equipped with the in-house DUW 3001 automatic movement, replete with their proprietary escapement—the Nomos swing system
The Club Neomatik Siren White measuring 37mm is part of the brand's Aqua series. It offers a water resistance of up to 200m, and is attached to a white fabric strap
The Club Sport Neomatik 42 Date—a larger variant in the collection, is crafted entirely in stainless steel. The timepiece features a galvanised black dial, and is water-resistant to 30m
It is powered by the in-house calibre DUW 6101 that stands out for its exceptional accuracy, and offers a power reserve of at least 42 hours
The Nomos Club Campus Neomatik 39 timepieces' dials flaunt a classic vibe with a mix of Arabic and Roman numerals and indexes, coated with Super-LumiNova

Nomos Club Explore the Collection

Metro Neomatik 39

The Nomos Metro Neomatik 39 stands out for its neo-classic aesthetic, executed to perfection by award-winning Berlin-based designer, Mark Braun. This automatic timepiece boasts highly suitable proportions for larger wrists, yet stays incredibly slender, thanks to its neomatik (new automatic) calibre. Here the models feature a silver-grey or a blue dial that stand out for their minimalistic design. The German watchmaker has used dots as indexes, thereby making the dial appear more spacious. One also sees slender rhodium-plated hour and minute hands that add a touch of sophistication. There’s also a small seconds counter at six o’clock—distinct with its bright red indicator. Crafted in a 38.5mm stainless steel case that’s water-resistant to 50m, the round framework houses the automatic calibre DUW 3001—measuring 3.2mm in height and 28.8mm in diameter. Like all new-age automatic calibres from Nomos, this too features the patented swing system, which ensures outstanding accuracy. Beating at a frequency of 21,600vph, it supplies a minimum power reserve of 43 hours when fully wound. Both versions are presented on a black leather strap attached to straight lugs, and fitted with rounded, stainless steel, winged clasps.

Ludwig Neomatik 41 Date

For Nomos, it is their ability to combine superior German watchmaking technology with minimalistic design codes that lend their timepieces a distinct classical appeal. The Ludwig Neomatik 41 Date is the epitome of elegance with its round steel case, presented on a black leather strap that, together, hark back to the era of vintage dress watches. The white dial features Roman hour markers, and a date window at three o’clock with Arabic numerals. There’s also a small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock that balances the delicate symmetry of the timepiece. The tempered blue hands add character to the watch as they stand out against the pristine backdrop. With ‘made in Germany’ emblazoned on the dial as a hallmark of excellence, Nomos take great pride in being an authentic German brand. The watch is equipped with an in-house calibre DUW 6101 with 27 jewels that boasts being the first neomatik (new automatic) calibre with a date mechanism, while maintaining a sleek structure. It can function smoothly for up to 42 hours when fully wound. Water-resistant to 50m, the Ludwig Neomatik 41 Date is presented on a black leather strap, fitted with a square, winged clasp.

Tangente Sport Neomatik 42 Date

In 2019, Nomos shifted towards a sportier aesthetic with the introduction of the Tangente Sport Neomatik 42 Date watches. However, at the core the brand is always guided by its philosophy of crafting minimalistic classical watches suited to a contemporary audience. These exceptionally robust models are powered by the brand’s neomatik date calibre DUW 6101, which supplies energy for up to 42 hours. The inner workings of the movement can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback. This mechanism is housed in a stainless steel case, equipped with reinforced seals and a sapphire crystal glass to protect the watches against hard knocks or leakage. The Tangente Sport is available in two versions—with a white, silver-plated dial and in marine black. The date window sits at three o’clock while the small seconds counter is at six o’clock—contrasted by a red hand for the black dial and a white one for the silver version. The rhodium-plated hands, enhanced with Super-LumiNova, along with the luminous hour indices add character to these solid watches besides offering great legibility underwater. Their unique character is furthered by the brand’s trademark stainless steel bracelet, created by screwing together 145 individual parts, replete with a deployant clasp. The wearer can easily attach the bracelet, or adjust it to suit their wrist, by using a screwdriver to remove additional links. The watch offers a water resistance of up to 300m—an ideal choice when it comes to indulging in water sports.