Round-UpThe Custodians Of Time: Presenting Cvstos And Their Top Watches
In an industry teeming with luxury sport watches, Swiss watch brand Cvstos have managed to find a little recess and are now firmly wedged there. Their success comes from tonneau shaped cases with mostly skeletonised dials and casebacks, and acute attention to detail. Here are some of the best Cvstos watches available today
May We Recommend
To make oneself known in an industry as saturated as the watch world is, the brand’s vision—and the execution of it—must be clear. Geneva-based watch brand Cvstos, who arrived on the luxury sport watch scene almost two decades back, check both these boxes. Known for their tonneau-shaped timepieces with varying levels of skeletonisaton on the dial and full exhibition casebacks, Cvstos watches offer a modern and unconventional approach to watchmaking. The brand’s bold use of colour, avant-garde materials, and attention to detail are what helped them hold their own. Named for their aeronautical, nautical or urban inspiration, the Cvstos Jetliner, Sealiner, and Metropolitan respectively boast a design language unique to each collection. In the brand’s Racing series, a partially-open dial with horizontal blades evokes the front wing of a Formula 1 car. It is subtle yet noticeable details such as these that sets each collection apart.
The Young Custodians And A Head Start
Like most watchmakers throughout history, brand Cofounder Sassoun Sirmakes had early exposure to horology via his father Vartan Sirmakes’s brand, Franck Muller. Takeaways for the junior Sirmakes included an early education in various machines, and the importance of a sound business plan backing a passion-fuelled idea. And yet, unlike most watchmakers in history, he chose the tougher route by starting his own brand instead of joining his father’s. Then aged 20, he found a kindred spirit in designer Antonio Terranova, and Cvstos (which is Latin for ‘custodian’) was founded in 2004. “When we started the brand, we decided to start with the tonneau shape, and to make skeleton watches,” Sirmakes told The Watch Guide in an interview recently. Having positioned their brand early on, despite initial hiccups, the co-founders found their footing easily. “It was easier then, because there were fewer brands, and there were even less brands doing skeleton displays and different shapes,” he adds.
Initial successes in the early 2000s expedited the brand’s growth, and they slowly expanded operations to include more in-house work. Their headquarters in Geneva house facilities that range from design and production to quality control. Cvstos watches are known for their high quality materials and their movements are developed in-house. The result is an unconventional brand with a design code that displays quality craftsmanship and technical prowess. Simply put, Cvstos watches are a statement of individuality on the wrist.
Cvstos Watches: Aeronautical Influences In The Jetliner
Aviation inspiration for the Cvstos Jetliner transcends the collection’s aesthetics and can be felt in the weight of the watch. The 41mm tonneau case of the Cvstos Jetliner PS Grey Brancard Blue Titanium timepiece is crafted from titanium. But that’s not all. Even components of the CVS410 calibre that powers it have been further hollowed out to enhance the watch’s lightness. Robust yet lightweight, the Jetliner PS Grey Brancard Blue Titanium watch features brushed and polished finishes, with blued screws that highlight the muted grey of the metal. The skeletonised dial is in a matching blue, with the minute track printed on a blue flange. Sharp orange indexes and hands stand out in contrast. A small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock also houses the date window.
Cvstos Jetliner PS Grey Brancard Blue Titanium In A Nutshell
- Case: 41mm, titanium
- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal
- Dial: Skeleton, blue with orange highlights
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Calibre: CVS410, 42-hour power reserve
- Strap: Blue rubber
Cvstos Watches: Luxury Yachts And The Cvstos Sealiner
Subtle nautical influences define the Cvstos Sealiner collection, and yet the watch instantly and unmistakeably evokes luxury yachts. The tonneau case is reminiscent of a boat’s shape, while the dial is inspired by the wooden deck of a luxury yacht. Indexes are shaped in a way that they evoke boats harboured in a marina, while the colour pallete of the collection is distinctly nautical with recurring shades of green and blue. Cases of the Sealiner collection are made from either steel, ceramic or sapphire crystal. Most watches in the Sealiner collection feature a small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock, or at the ‘stern’ of the timepiece. The Cvstos Sealiner Chronograph is designed to appeal to fans of yacht racing, with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a 12-hour recorder at six, small seconds at nine and day and date display at three o’clock.
Cvstos Sealiner Chronograph Steel In A Nutshell
- Case: 41mm, steel
- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal
- Dial: Brown; chronograph recorders at 12 and six o’clock, small seconds at nine, day and date display at three
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, day, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter
- Calibre: Self-winding calibre CVS857, 48-hour power reserve
- Strap: Turquoise rubber
Cvstos Watches: The Racing Collection
Inspired by automotive racing, the Racing line by Cvstos watches is interesting for its dial design. Horizontal blade-like structures are reminiscent of the front wing of a race car, specifically a Formula 1 car, whose aerodynamic design considerably enhances efficiency of the race car. Essentially, the Cvstos Racing collection consists of three broad sub-series.
Cvstos Racing Twin-Time
A large date display at 12 and a dual-time zone at six o’clock on the dial set the Cvstos Racing Twin-Time Collection apart. The second time zone is displayed via a rotating disc on the bottom half of the dial. A central seconds hand is shaped like a syringe, and all markers and hands are generously filled with luminous material. The brand’s automatic CVS551 calibre powers the watches and offers a 42-hour power reserve.
Cvstos Racing Twin-Time In A Nutshell
- Case: 41mm, steel/red gold
- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal
- Dial: Double disc date display at 12; second time zone display on a rotating disc at six
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, dual-time display
- Calibre: CVS551, automatic, 42-hour power reserve
- Strap: Rubber
Cvstos Racing Challenge Chrono GMT
With a GMT function and a chronograph, the Racing Challenge Chrono GMT packs quite a punch. Two rotating sub-dials at 12 and six o’clock display the chronograph recorders. Indexes and timekeeping hands are filled with Super-LumiNova. A lume-filled arrow hand functions as the GMT indicator, while a syringe hand is the central seconds hand. The watch is powered by the CVS577 calibre.
Cvstos Racing Challenge Chrono GMT In A Nutshell
- Case: 41mm, steel/red gold
- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal
- Dial: chronograph recorders at 12 and six, central hours, minutes, seconds, GMT hands
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, chronograph
- Calibre: CVS577, automatic, 42-hour power reserve
- Strap: Rubber
Cvstos Racing Chrono Sprint
The partially-skeletonised dial displays a vertical day and date indicator at six. An oversized sub-dial at 12 houses the 30-minute recorder while also displaying the average speed in kilometres. Blue PVD treatment on the steel case matches the blue dial with striking red highlights. Powering the watch is the automatic CVS556 movement, with a 48-hour power reserve.
Cvstos Racing Chrono Sprint In A Nutshell
- Case: 41mm, steel with blue PVD
- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal
- Dial: Blue with red highlights; 30-minute counter, speedometer, day and date
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, speedometer, day, date
- Calibre: CVS576, automatic, 48-hour power reserve
- Strap: Blue rubber
Cvstos Watches: Urban Appeal Of The Metropolitan Collection
Among the first collections presented by Cvstos watches, the Metropolitan line is a series of urban themed timepieces. Sized at 42mm, the tonneau cases are crafted from lightweight yet robust titanium, making them ideal for everyday use. The first watch in the collection was the PS line, with a small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock. A minute track sits on the flange of the vertically textured dial, while the small seconds dominates the lower half of the watch. Dial options include blue and grey. The chronograph version features a sunray texture, interrupted by two contrasting sub-dials at nine and three o’clock.
Cvstos Metropolitan PS Titanium In A Nutshell
- Case: 42mm, titanium
- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal
- Dial: Vertical texture, small seconds at six; blue/grey
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Movement: CVS410, automatic; 42-hour power reserve
- Strap: Titanium bracelet
Cvstos Metropolitan Chrono Titanium In A Nutshell
- Case: 42mm, titanium
- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal
- Dial: Radial texture in blue/red, silver sub-dials at nine and three
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, date
- Movement: CVS757, 42-hour power reserve
- Strap: Titanium bracelet
Cvstos Watches: The Urban Skeleton
The brand later released open-worked versions of both small seconds and chronograph models. With bridges of the CVS410 calibre displayed on a skeletonised dial in a rich verdant hue, the Metropolitan PS Titanium/SQLT Green timepiece features the small seconds sub-dial with markings in white. Meanwhile, the Metropolitan Chrono Titanium Blue SQLT timepiece has bridges in a calming shade of blue, with translucent sub-dials at three and nine that enhance the three-dimensionality of the watch.
Cvstos Metropolitan PS Titanium SQLT Green In A Nutshell
- Case: 42mm, titanium
- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal
- Dial: Skeleton, green bridges, small seconds at six
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
- Movement: CVS410, automatic; 42-hour power reserve
- Strap: Titanium bracelet
Cvstos Metropolitan Chrono Titanium Blue SQLT In A Nutshell
- Case: 42mm, titanium
- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal
- Dial: Skeleton, blue bridges, sub-dials at nine and three o’clock
- Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph
- Movement: CVS758, 42-hour power reserve
- Strap: Titanium bracelet
Cvstos Watches: Sporty Luxury And The Cvstos Chronograph
The Cvstos Chronograph is the brand’s version of a well-balanced and intricate chronograph, presented on an open-worked dial within a tonneau shaped frame. Crafted from titanium, the 41mm case sometimes also features components in rose gold. Although, it is the dial that is truly stunning. A 30-minute counter at 12 balances the 12-hour recorder at six, while the small seconds at nine is offset by a power reserve indicator at three o’clock. Hands and indexes are generously filled with Super-LumiNova, and the flange is marked with a tachymeter scale. Visible in great detail through the dial is the CVS577 automatic calibre. Yet legibility remains clean, with outlines for sub-dials and contrasting highlights on all the chronograph watches.
Cvstos Chronograph In A Nutshell
- Case: 41mm, titanium/rose gold
- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire Crystal
- Dial and functions: Skeleton; 30-minute and 12-hour recorders, small seconds, power reserve indicator, date
- Movement: CVS577, automatic, 48-hour power reserve
- Strap: Rubber
Cvstos watches may not have been around for very long, but one thing is certain, they started off on the right note and have, so far, sustained the passion that initially drove the brand. With their bold approach to design and use of cutting-edge materials and technology, Cvstos watches offer enthusiasts a fresh take on time-telling, one that respects and celebrates the history of time, while looking way into the future so as to tell time better.
FAQs
-
Why is a date window important on a watch?
More than being important, a date window on a watch is a practical complication, allowing the wearer to quickly read the date without needing a separate calendar. Apart from its function, it also makes much for the form, contributing to the overall aesthetic balance of the watch face. It remains a sought-after feature among watch enthusiasts for its convenience, not to mention the traditional appeal of this complication.
-
What is a GMT watch?
A GMT watch lets you track two time zones simultaneously using an additional 24-hour hand and a separate time scale. It's perfect for travelers or anyone needing to monitor different time zones. The 24-hour scale helps distinguish between day and night in the second zone
-
What is a small seconds dial in wristwatches?
Small seconds in wristwatches appear on a sub-dial that displays a dedicated seconds hand. A small seconds dial not only adds a visual distinction to the watch face but also enhances legibility. The small seconds complication is particularly valued in high-end timepieces.
-
What is so special about skeleton watches?
Skeleton watches are special timepieces because of their see-through design, which highlights the intricate movements inside. Often featuring various functions, they attract collectors and enthusiasts, given their meticulous engineering focusing on transparency. Their artistic appeal often makes them a stylish statement piece.
-
What is a chronograph?
A chronograph in a watch is a complication—or a feature beyond standard timekeeping—that performs stopwatch functions. Chronographs in analogue watches usually have a central seconds counting hand, along with sub-dials for the 30-minute and 12-hour counters.