SpotlightRolex 2025: All The New Novelties From Watches and Wonders Geneva
A new collection in 13 years, new bracelets, new dials and new innovation in mechanical watchmaking, here are the highlights of the new Rolex novelties unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 this April
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It’s the first thing that people look forward to when the curtain lifts on Watches and Wonders (and earlier Baselworld)—is what Rolex will unveil. Generally, it’s a new version of an existing model, new dials that instantly grab the attention of collectors, an update of one of the brand’s icons, or a new jewelled variation with some other key series. Very rarely do any of the new novelties disappoint, and nor did this year’s. There was a lot to discuss about what they showcased earlier this April, but what stole the conversation was their first new model in the classic collection, in 13 years. This was the new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller. Take a look at the highlights of this new line, including its innovative new movement, along with a few details on the other Rolex 2025 novelties.
Rolex 2025: The Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller
The first thing one needs to know about the new Land-Dweller is the new calibre these watches house—the in-house calibre 7135. Thinner than most Rolex calibre, but still packing a punch, the 7135’s greatest achievement is the Dynapulse escapement. An alternative to the traditional Swiss lever escapement, this sequential distribution escapement transmits power through a rolling motion. With seven patents filed for this mechanism, the 7135’s escapement features a transmission wheel connected to the barrel that drives two distribution wheels that activate an impulse rocker, sustaining the balance wheel’s oscillation.
Masterfully constructed, the escapement offers exceptional resistance to magnetic fiends owing to its several silicon components, in addition to the greater energy efficiency. With a balance wheel in optimised brass, the balance staff is made from high-tech ceramic, which is sculpted by laser—a first for Rolex, and exclusive to the brand. Equipped with a Syloxi hairspring in silicon, the oscillator beats at 36,000vph, despite which the 7135 guarantees a significant power reserve of 66 hours. This brilliant new calibre can be seen through the display caseback, with its stunning decoration and yellow gold oscillating weight.
Flip it around, and you’d see the dial with the new Rolex honeycomb pattern, with flattened cells that give it an edge, which carries forward onto the chiselled construction of the case with the nicely integrated ‘flat Jubilee’ bracelet—a new spin on the classic Jubilee strap. A few Rolex staples seen across the face of the new Rolex 2025 Land-Dweller include the Cyclops lens on the sapphire crystal over the date, and the fluted bezel. Instead of this fluted bezel, the Everose gold version’s bezel is paved with baguette-cut diamonds. This one and the white Rolesor (steel and white gold) have white dials, with markers, hands and other details complementing the case materials. The highlight of the new collection is the very substantial and hefty platinum version that comes with an exclusive ice blue dial.
Rolex 2025: The 1908
Another new Rolex 2025 novelty with a brand-new bracelet is their new 1908. Fully in solid 18-carat gold, this 1908—from a line that was introduced in 2023, commemorating 1908, when the brand was christened Rolex—the bracelet on this addition is the new Settimo. Italian for ‘seven’, settimo refers to the very small seven links in each row. The dial in sublime white or classic black housed within the case, featuring a very finely fluted bezel, has elegant gold hands and hour markers, and a railroad minute track, with a small seconds track to match. Behind the dial in the 39mm case is the automatic Rolex calibre 7140 with the highly-efficient Chronergy escapement that helps the movement offer a 66-hour power reserve.
Rolex 2025: Oyster Perpetual Datejust
More 18-carat gold comes with the new Rolex 2025 edition of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31, with diamonds on the bezel and indexes. The most striking aspect though is the new red ombré dial, which is tough to create, using a PVD process. A vivid red in the centre, the gradient dial goes much darker towards the periphery revealing rich hues of wine to almost black. This exceptional piece runs on the 56-hour automatic calibre 2236.
Rolex 2025: Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Going into the professional Rolex 2025 novelties is the new ‘left-hand’ Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, made from 18-carat white gold for the first time ever. The crown on the left that connects with the Rolex manufacture calibre 3285 that offers a huge power reserve of 70 hours. The highlight of this new timepiece is the green dial that has been meticulously crafted from Cerachrom—a decision made in order for the face of the watch to perfectly complement the bezel in the same material. In green and black, to indicate day and night, the bidirectional-rotating GMT bezel, features a 24-hour scale of that is meant to work in tandem with the arrowhead GMT hand.
Rolex 2025: The New Dials
Continuing with the Rolex 2025 professional models are more new dials in another GMT-Master II, a Cosmograph Daytona and a Sky-Dweller. Most noteworthy of these is the dial on the first one. Housed within the 18-carat Everose gold of the GMT-Master II, with a bezel in brown and black ceramic is a dial made from tiger iron. Used by Rolex for the first time, this metamorphic rock naturally occurs with three minerals—tiger’s eye, red jasper and hematite. Almost looking like a fading dusk sky, this gorgeous new dial also presents a big trend of 2025—that of stone and mineral dials. Next up, the new Daytona has a new lacquered dial in blue turquoise, with contrasting black counters. And finally, presenting Rolex’s signature green sunray dial and 18-carat yellow gold, combined for the first time in this collection is the new Sky-Dweller, rounding up the new dials of the Rolex 2025 professionals.
Rolex 2025: The Oyster Perpetual Variations
Showcasing another big trend—of pastel hues are the new Rolex 2025 editions of the Oyster Perpetual. With lacquered dials in soft pastel shades of lavender, beige and pistachio, these three new versions are in cases sized at 28, 36 and 41mm, except for the lavender, which doesn’t come in 41mm. Adding to the warmth of these hues is the matt treatment of the lacquer, giving us another thing to love about this iconic time-only Rolex line.
