ReviewExclusively Bronze: The Sophisticated Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze Dial Edition

An Overview

For Oris, it’s always been about creating mechanical watches that make functional sense, since the brand was founded in 1904. They always need to have a practical purpose, such as a date pointer, which is as useful as it gets. After the hours, minutes and seconds, most of us appreciate the date feature in our watches. And what a date pointer does is eliminate the digital display of a regular date window, and present a mechanical watch with a display that’s completely analogue. Oris has celebrated this idea through its signature Pointer Date complication for over eight decades, and to celebrate its milestone 80th year, they introduced the Big Crown Pointer Date in bronze—the trendy alloy that is fast becoming a mainstay. This year’s edition goes all out with a bronze dial even, giving the Pointer Date a soothing, earthy appearance.

A handsome piece, this new bronze Big Crown is a perfect follow-up to the stellar anniversary edition of the Pointer Date

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An ideal piece to present the idea of simple and functional timekeeping, this edition reflects the gorgeous case design of the Big Crown Pointer Date series

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Impressions

A handsome piece, this new bronze Big Crown is a perfect follow-up to the stellar anniversary edition of the Pointer Date. An ideal piece to present the idea of simple and functional timekeeping, this edition reflects the gorgeous case design of the Big Crown Pointer Date series, which the brand holds very dear. The practical simplicity and the reliable mechanism that it runs on, together with the wonderful harmony of the hues, and especially the brilliance of bronze, make this as good as any analogue date watch you could possibly have.

The All-Bronze Pointer Date

The case in beautiful bronze

Bronze has been one of the biggest emerging materials in high-end watchmaking in recent years. As an alternative to steel, and yet not as glittery as gold, bronze has fast become a favourite of many, not just because of its striking hue, but also because of the properties of the alloy itself. As bronze ages, it develops a certain patina, making each bronze watch unique over time. This is due to its composition of metals, including copper, and how it reacts to different conditions of humidity and moisture. These are just some of the reasons why Oris has made bronze such an integral part of their novelty portfolio, including special editions of their Diver Sixty-Five watches in addition to this watch from the aviation pillar.

This is presented in a beautiful bronze case, with a smooth structure and a nuanced, fluted bezel—all at a comfortable size of 40mm, and water resistant to 50m

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As bronze ages, it develops a certain patina, making each bronze watch unique over time. This is due to its composition of metals, and how they react to humidity and moisture

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The dial in this watch is also made of bronze, chemically treated and lacquered to capture the unique effect obtained on each piece

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The domed sapphire crystal glass only adds to the overall appeal of the timepiece

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“We’ve used it in a few of our watches over the last few years and it’s proved to be hugely popular with our customers,” explains Rolf Studer, co-CEO of the Hölstein-based company. “But more than that, it’s a utilitarian material that fits our approach to watchmaking and serves as a nod to our industrial heritage.” This watch represents that perfectly with its smooth structure and nuanced, fluted bezel—all in beautiful bronze—40mm in diameter and water resistant to 50m. The domed sapphire crystal glass only adds to the overall appeal of the timepiece.

All on the dial

The face of this watch elevates its status as a bronze timepiece. Made of solid bronze, the dial in this edition of the Pointer Date is treated with chemicals and then laminated with matte lacquer, to kind of seal the effect of the treatment. This helps ensure that each dial’s finish is quite different than the next one’s, giving every owner quite the unique piece. Moreover, its soft brown tone enhances the entire palette of the piece, even as it serves as the perfect backdrop for the white elements on the dial, including the analogue date disc outside the chapter ring, and the large Arabic numeral hour markers. For luminosity in the dark, the dial’s details are printed with Super-LumiNova—also seen infused in the cathedral-style hour and minute hands.

The soft brown tone of the bronze dial enhances the entire palette of the piece, even as it serves as the perfect backdrop for the white elements on the dial

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For luminosity in the dark, the hour markers, the large Arabic numerals and the cathedral-style hands are infused with Super-LumiNova

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The red accent in the form of the eponymous date pointer completes the look of the Pointer Date Bronze

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The red accent in the form of the eponymous pointer completes the look. This pointer even represents the functional evolution in design that the brand has seen over the years. “The tip of the Pointer Date hand was an arrow initially, then it became a half moon, and now it’s a blend of the two,” Studer expounds. “The current design frames the date, making it as easy to read off at a glance as possible.”

The automatic calibre 754 beating within offers the very useful instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second for accurate adjustment of time

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Enhancing the vintage look is dark brown leather strap that complements the bronze case perfectly, especially with its bronze pin-buckle

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The movement beating within

Everything is powered by an automatic calibre, the 754, which offers the very useful instantaneous date, date corrector, fine timing device and stop-second for accurate adjustment of time. While it holds an adequate power reserve of 38 hours, the movement can be seen through the transparent caseback of the watch.

Strap it on

Enhancing the vintage look is dark brown leather strap that complements the bronze case perfectly, especially with its bronze pin-buckle.

The Oris Pointer Date: A Look Back

Unveiled first in 1938, the Pointer Date has been a part of Oris’ Aviation pillar of watches for all these years. It has survived times of war, the evolution of horology, tumultuous changes in the watch industry, and even a change of brand ownership—a change that the honorary chairman, Dr Rolf Portmann believes was necessary for Oris’ survival. “Oris’ then owners ASUAG (now, the Swatch Group) behaved as if they were happy to let it die,” Portmann looks back. “The management buyout [Chairman] Ulrich Herzog and I staged in late 1982 meant we could rebuild and continue Oris’ wonderful story,” he reminisces. It clearly played a crucial role for the Pointer Date itself. “Designs come and go, but the Big Crown Pointer Date has endured and keeps getting stronger,” Portmann says. “I think that’s because of the fundamental merits of its design, which is practical and functional, but also beautiful. It has become an Oris signature and a symbol of how strong the company’s heritage and brand are.”

“Designs come and go, but the Big Crown Pointer Date has endured and keeps getting stronger,” says Rolf Portmann, Oris' honorary chairman

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Seen here is the special 80th anniversary edition of the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date, in bronze with a vibrant green dial

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Studer adds that the Pointer Date even helped the brand after that. “In the late 1980s, the Big Crown Pointer Date was put centre stage as a symbol of Oris’ heritage and longevity,” he states. “It played a pivotal role in helping Oris rebuild after the troubles of the quartz crisis. It sums up the Oris story. The Big Crown will keep telling the Oris story. It will remain a signature piece,” concludes Studer.

The 80th anniversary edition of the Pointer Date offers more contrast with its green dial, which complements the leather strap in a brown lighter than that of the bronze dial version

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This watch is also sized at a favourable 40mm, and powered by the same calibre 754, which offers a power reserve of 38 hours

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It presents all the benefits that the new bronze dial edition offers

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These include the inevitable unique character each watch will gain as the bronze of its case develops a patina that is different than that of its peers

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Portmann attributes the timelessness of the Pointer Date to the “fundamental merits of its design, which is practical and functional, but also beautiful"

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About Oris

Founded in 1904, Oris has always focused on developing and mastering the art of mechanical timekeeping, with a strong identity of making only mechanical watches that make practical sense. This has been particularly true for Oris since 1982, when the management took over the brand from its then owners, the ASUAG, hence becoming an independent watch manufacturer. Today, this independence shines through with the brand’s current motto ‘Go your own way’, which also informs their product strategy, even as they push the boundaries of watchmaking while continuing to make useful and practical timepieces.