ReviewLaunching the Newest Men’s watch: Drive de Cartier

I’m very excited to review the Drive de Cartier, since, in my opinion, it is one of the best-looking watches that I’ve ever laid my eyes on. Having said that, it’s also noteworthy that Cartier, as a globally celebrated brand, is slowly evolving into a powerhouse of in-house mechanical calibers. One can only marvel at how diverse and interesting the world of Cartier is and will continue to be.

Premiered at the annual SIHH in Geneva, the brand unveiled a completely new design of watches inspired by the vintage automotive industry. With this new addition, you get a vibe that the attempt is clearly to break down the wall between day and evening dress watches for men while continuing to introduce cutting-edge timepieces. A man who enjoys timeless designs on his wrist and steers vintage automobiles on the road would appreciate the beauty of this timepiece.

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I have organized this review into four distinct sections that cover key features of the three principal constituents of the watch viz. the case, calibre, and caseback; and most importantly, the comfort factor as well.

A Case of Steel

The Maison has designed this collection to meet the standards of the connoisseurs, connoisseurs with taste. The Drive is housed in a retro 40 mm cushion case, coupled with a sleek frame, which is one of the defining characteristics of this timepiece. One would immediately notice the striking richness of depth in the dial, which is perfectly offset by the uniquely understated nature of the shape. As they say, the devil is in the details – the patterning techniques of the guilloché dial are engraved to look like the monumental radiator grille of classic cars. Another distinctive detail lies in the case sides – with curved edges that are satin textured with polished top and bottom surfaces, they complement the vintage look very well.

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At 40mm wide and 11.5 mm thick, the Drive case doesn’t seem that large but given that it is a squarish watch, it wears bigger than a round one and the 40mm in execution, I would say, is ideal for most wrists.

The case is fashioned in steel, fitted with a grey, or white guilloché dial. Sure, the watch has a domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal over the dial, but it does give some reflection during the daytime (nothing that bothers the eye too much though). Look closely at the dial again, and you will notice the flinqué engraving to showcase the sword-shaped hour and minute hands (in blue or steel). The sizeable Roman hour numerals, circular grooves to adorn the small seconds (at 6) and a sunburst pattern beneath the minute track – are all beautifully proportioned. In addition, the crown is shaped to resemble car bolts, which adds a strong masculine touch. A simple dial, but overall just as legible and interesting.

“The taut curves and refined lines construct an identity that is stylish, elegant and modern: the language of Cartier is thus perfectly articulated.”

A Simple Calibre

The hours, minutes, small seconds and date (at 3) functions  are brought to life by the self-winding 1904-PS MC (PS stands for “Petite Secondes,” or small seconds), which is also known as one of the very first in-house calibers of Cartier; the same trusted movement is used in watches like the Cartier Tank MC. First used in 2010, the calibre 1904 MC, was among the first movements conceived, manufactured and assembled by the Cartier Manufacture.

The genesis of this visually simple movement is multi-layered. The 3-hand calibers of Cartier sit in the upper range of the dial, mainly because of its finishing and also because of the double barrel, which helps in reliable timekeeping and increases the power reserve to 48 hours. These slim watches are crafted and assembled in Cartier’s clean and advanced workshops in the heart of Geneva.

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An Exhibition Caseback

A closer inspection of the watch reveals the exhibition case back that depicts the influence of automotive designs to this meticulously crafted movement. The mirror polished screws, refined finishes such as the Côtes de Genève symbol over the bridges and the oscillating rotor attests to the high standards of quality to which Cartier holds its movements. Turning over the watch and looking through the transparent case-back is pleasing to anyone who enjoys the workings of mechanics as much as the face.

Comfort

As you would expect, the Cartier Drive sits wonderfully on the wrist, tying the dial together gracefully with an alligator skin strap, secured with a double adjustable folding clasp in steel. If you are looking for comfort with an aesthetic appeal, this watch is definitely worth possessing!

Final Thoughts

The greatness of this timepiece is that it appeals to both collectors who prize the finer things in life, as well as the first-time watch buyers, who have been following the high-end watch industry and long dreamt of a fine luxury mechanical watch.

With the Cartier Drive the brand boasts of creating a timeless design that can be proudly worn with a suit during the week and a T-shirt during the weekend. As a true sign of the modern times, Drive de Cartier is one of the most elegantly simple watches that Cartier has produced to date.

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(Image Courtesy: Esquire Me & Cartier)