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SpotlightInternational Men’s Day Special: The Revival Of Smaller, Elegant Timepieces For The Old-School Gentleman In You

While a large part of this century belonged to substantially sized, sporty watches, the emerging trend lately is a return to more modest sizes, because there are some things that will never go out of style. On the occasion of International Men's Day, we discuss this revival and pick out our favourite smaller timepieces that effortlessly embody elegance

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When watches made their way from pockets to wrists in the early 20th century, they were tools above anything else. In fact, around the time when they were a new phenomenon, wristwatches had a critical role to play in military and aviation out of actual necessity. They then gradually found themselves being used as accessories, diving apparatus, lap timers or even just ornaments. Through this evolution and till the 1970s, watches generally remained modestly sized and elegantly proportioned. Case sizes between 30mm-35mm were the norm, while those around 37mm-40mm were considered oversized! To take a celebrated example, James Bond’s watch worn by Sean Connery in Dr No was just 38mm. Now, I don’t think Mr Bond is one to sport anything that isn’t dripping with masculinity, but if we look at recent trends, this is close to the normal size for ladies’ sports watches.

So, what really changed?

The Trend Of Going Big With Watch Sizes

The 1980s was when the trend for larger watches took off. This could be attributed to the Swiss watch industry coming up with a new aesthetic after the Japanese quartz revolution, in making watches visible design pieces with substantial presence as opposed to the quaint timekeepers they used to be. It added up with an increase in the number of digital devices people were using, such that the primary function of a wristwatch was no longer to just tell time. If you jog your memory about the most ubiquitous timepieces you’ve been coming across recently, they are likely to be large and extravagant.

International Men’s Day
There is a growing fascination for watches that speak to classical sensibilities, partially also owed to the popularity of minimalism in the world of design, at large. Seen here is the titular character of the TV series ‘Mad Men’, Don Draper flaunting an Omega Seamaster DeVille.

However, the charm of a classic, small timepiece never fully went away. It’s actually making a roaring comeback. There is a growing fascination for watches that speak to classical sensibilities, partially also owed to the popularity of minimalism in the world of design, at large. It may have been hard to imagine a few years ago but understated and vintage-inspired designs are the biggest thing in the watch world right now. Vintage-mania on Instagram and at international auctions has only catalysed this.

International Men’s Day
If you’re a fan of ‘Mad Men’, a TV series set in the 1960s, you know that Don Draper’s watches, like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso seen above, get their fair share of screen time and have got people curious

Pop culture is playing its part in the revival too. If you’re a fan of Mad Men, a TV series set in the 1960s, you know that Don Draper’s watches get their fair share of screen time and have got people curious. Then there’s Ryan Gosling, who’s never seen without an interesting vintage watch on his wrist, whether on screen or off it.

What Makes Smaller Watches Irresistible

The ratio of the case and wrist size can be a factor that is often overlooked when acquiring a watch, but there really isn’t a greater indication of how well a watch suits you. When a watch sits nicely and comfortably on your wrist, it has a highly pleasing aesthetic balance—a kind of timeless subtlety. And I think people are coming around to that. While there is no denying this is purely a matter of personal preference, when trying on a watch, I look to distinguish between whether it seems one with my wrist or just placed on it—you know it when you see it. I feel that there must be a good reason why older codes of elegance have stayed with us. For instance, we still haven’t found a good enough alternative to the tuxedo. Why, then, did we deviate so much in case of wristwatches?

On the occasion of International Men’s Day, The Watch Guide presents a handpicked selection of modestly sized watches that epitomise unassuming simplicity and demonstrate the industry shift to smaller timepieces. Each of them subtle, but highly distinctive, and coming from brands that pay careful attention to what collectors with conservative leanings are looking for.

The 35mm Longines Conquest Heritage

International Men’s Day
Longines launched the Conquest in 1954 and this modern reissue stays faithful to the original from over 60 years ago. The size is kept at 35mm, which is true to its heritage, and it also retains the hesalite crystal, arming it with the charm of an antique.

As a brand, Longines is pretty serious about its DNA and heritage. It’s one of the watchmakers that showcases true consistency in aesthetic across its collections, playing elegance as its trump card. And one place where they really bring their A-game is vintage reissues. Longines launched the Conquest in 1954 and this modern reissue stays faithful to the original from over 60 years ago. Golden applied markers and hands on a silver dial result in a pleasing two-tone outcome, with the date window at 12 o’ clock to remind you that whimsy in design is a wonderful thing.

The size is kept at 35mm, which is true to its heritage, and it also retains the hesalite crystal, arming it with the charm of an antique. A cliché in watch buying nowadays is that sapphire crystal is better than acrylic or hesalite, which is like saying digital cameras are better than film cameras—essentially a never-ending debate between the purist and modernist. While sapphire may be a better material on paper, it is characteristically different from hesalite. In this case, it may be worth giving up some scratch resistance in favour of warmth and glow.

Nomos Orion

International Men’s Day
The Tangente might be the definitive Nomos, but the Orion takes an even more formal and minimalist approach to watch design. The 35mm variant is just 7.4mm thick, which makes for a satisfying wear.

Nomos has stuck to what it does best in offering simple designs with a whole lot of details as you start to look closer. Sizes across their catalogue are mostly under 40mm, and they haven’t changed direction in favour of prevailing trends. The Tangente might be the definitive Nomos, but the Orion takes an even more formal and minimalist approach to watch design. The 35mm variant is just 7.4mm thick, which makes for a satisfying wear.

Doing away with Nomos’ signature numerals, the Orion plays between contrasts of gold applied markers and heat-blued hands, while the domed sapphire crystal adds some curves to complement the sparse, clean dial. Little touches like the space between the four minute markers and gold marker are different from what you would usually see on a minute track, making it an eye-catcher even in its simplicity. As with all their watches, the hand-wound Alpha calibre powering the Orion is made in-house by Nomos.

Omega Railmaster 60th Anniversary

International Men’s Day
Last year, on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of the Railmaster, Omega took the opportunity to recreate the Railmaster down to its very last detail. The case size was kept at 38mm, making it an under-the-radar tool watch that is a total technical powerhouse on the inside.
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Omega is a brand that is rightfully proud of its heritage and frequently offers designs from its back catalogue. 2017 was the 60th anniversary of the Railmaster—the anti-magnetic watch they released in 1957 for engineers and scientists exposed to magnetic fields in their line of work. They took this opportunity to recreate the Railmaster down to its very last detail, including the bracelet clasp and packaging. On the outside, there is absolutely nothing modern about this watch and that’s what I love most about it.

As a result, the case size was kept at 38mm, making it an under-the-radar tool watch that is a total technical powerhouse on the inside. It is equipped with an in-house co-axial movement that is METAS Master Chronometer certified, which implies that apart from high accuracy (maximum deviation of +5 seconds per day), it can resist magnetic fields of up to 15,000 Gauss. The 60th Anniversary Railmaster is a limited edition of 3,557 pieces. The fact that the original Railmaster had a short production run of just a few years makes this watch rare, coveted and beautifully unassuming.

39.5mm Oris Aquis Date

International Men’s Day
Classic size and style come together in the 39.5mm Aquis Date in a smart, high-value package that is quintessentially Oris. The Aquis’ tough, unpretentious vibe and understated design makes it a strong contender for one of the nicest beach-to-boardroom watches.

The Oris novelties that have been introduced this year indicate that they, too, are convinced about small watch sizes being in vogue. We have seen the Divers Sixty-Five collection expand to include 36mm and 40mm versions and the return of sub-40mm Aquis Date after a hiatus of a few years. Oris knows how to practice the right amount of sophistication and restraint in design, which makes their watches appear precise and confident without needless frills. Let’s just say they do well-finished, no-nonsense watches extremely well. This is clearly seen in the 39.5mm Aquis Date, where classic size and style come together in a smart, high-value package that is quintessentially Oris.

This Aquis, with its ceramic bezel, crown guards and 300m water resistance, is executed wonderfully to give it tool watch muscle, complemented by a sunburst blue dial for when you’re in a more flamboyant mood. Depending on the light, the dial goes from black to a rich blue, which is a sight to behold when you turn your wrist over to check the time. The Aquis’ tough, unpretentious vibe and understated design makes it a strong contender for one of the nicest beach-to-boardroom watches.

Evidently, watch brands are introducing more smaller watches for men now than they were earlier. So, the next time you’re looking to get yourself a timepiece, make sure you try one of these and see how you feel—you won’t be disappointed with the quiet assuredness they offer.

Amish Behl is India’s first Watch Expert, certified by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), Switzerland. He is a watch specialist and collector based in New Delhi, deeply passionate about the art and history of timekeeping. Behl is also the founder of Definitely Curry, a digital publication about modern ‘made in India’.

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