ReviewIn-Depth Review: Favre-Leuba Raider Deep Blue
Bringing the 60s inspired, attention grabbing timepiece on your wrist.
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I have held in my hand, by casual estimate, over 5,000 timepieces in all these years of dealing with watches. And I still can proudly say, I have dropped and broken only one timepiece so far, that too when I was just one year old. At least that’s what I have been told. Yes, you guessed it right- it was a Favre-Leuba watch owned by my father. Since the time I got to know Titan had acquired the famed Swiss watchmaker, I must have shared the story with everyone related to the brand. That deep is the relationship of Favre-Leuba with India.
Many may know, but still, it’s worth reminding that Favre-Leuba is the second oldest Swiss watch brand, having started with Abraham Favre’s small workshop in the Swiss municipality of Le Locle in 1737. And India was one of the earlier markets reached by them along with Brazil, Chile, China and the USA.
Milestones of the Historical Brand: Favre-Leuba
The brand’s popular early wrist watches included the first mono-pusher chronographs in 1925 and the manually-wound Datora with calendar in 1946. In their workshops, precision watches such as chronometers were also assembled, the outstanding accuracy of which was awarded multiple first prizes by the Neuchâtel Observatory.
The brand’s golden era came in the 1950s and 60s. In 1955, Favre-Leuba introduced an in-house calibre FL101, with a large balance wheel for precise regulation as well as a power reserve of 50 hours, which was first used in the Sea Chief, Sea King and Sea Raider models. Two years later, the calibre FL102 with calendar was used in the Datic models. The automatic movements FL103 and FL104, which were equipped without or with a calendar indication, followed.
After the first in-house diver watch – the Water Deep of 1960 – the brand launched the Deep Blue with a water resistance of up to 200m, in 1963. This model’s huge success encouraged Favre-Leuba to also apply the principle of the aneroid barometer to measure pressure under water in their famous Bivouac watch. In 1968, the brand introduced the Bathy – the world’s first mechanical wristwatch, which not only displayed dive time but also current diving depth.
In Detail: The Favre-Leuba Raider Deep Blue
The model for review today- the Favre Leuba Raider Deep Blue, is a combination of new and old, combining elements of their original diver- the Deep Blue, and using improved materials such as sapphire crystals, high-frequency automatic movements and robust stainless steel bracelets and rubber straps. This attention grabbing new Deep Blue comes in a 44mm stainless steel case. The movement that powers the watch is a reliable Sellita SW200 Automatic, used extensively for diving watches. This watch comes with a water resistance of up to 300m.
44mm Stainless Steel & Black-PVD Steel Case, Interspaced Brushed & Polished Surfaces and 14 Sided “Tetradecagon” Bezel
Taking inspiration from the 60s, the golden era of watch designs and diving watches, in particular, the Favre-Leuba Raider Deep Blue is a genuine reinterpretation of the company’s first dive watch by the same name, and their famous line- the Bathy 160.
Any Favre-Leuba design is characterised by clear and expressive lines. The vintage bow shaped case extends from lug to lug, interspaced by brushed and polished surfaces. Another element of design which stands out in these watches is the finely worked 14 sided “tetradecagon” bezel, which is so rare. A beautiful highlight is the contrast of a simple dial and striking hands and appliquéd index marks. A strong Super-LumiNova coating helps the visibility adding to the functionality of the watch.
The basic case shape is the same as in the vintage model. One thing that is noticeably different is the disc on that dial that functions as the second hand on this model. Then there are similarities with the applied markers, the shape of the minute hand and the brand name font and logo.
Two Dial Colours: Blue & Black with Orange Accents, Vintage Looks and Applied Markers
Of the two coloured options of the black dial with orange accents and a blue dial, I prefer the blue. Honestly, the blue shade used on the dial and the aluminium bezel is quite unique and is quite unlike the other blues available in the market. The main charm of the watch is, however, its vintage looks. Whichever, one you choose, however, the Deep Blue has a clean dial that lends excellent readability.
One of the main reasons of Titan picking up a brand like Favre-Leuba, which was defunct for many years, is to revive the legacy of very strong and identifiable lines, among which Deep Blue is one, and the brand’s deep roots in India. Now with the new edition of Raider Deep Blue, Favre-Leuba offers a great tribute to the icon of the 60s but not without adding modern watch-making elements to it.
Strap Options:
The Raider Deep Blue comes with two strap variations: a sturdy stainless steel bracelet and black rubber strap bearing the brand name in a bold design. Both options secure the 44mm watch firmly on the wrist along with providing immense comfort.
Favre-Leuba is available in India exclusively at Ethos Watch Boutiques.
What did you think of the Favre-Leuba Raider Deep Blue? Do you prefer the blue or black dial? Let us know in the comments section below!