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ReviewRevitalising A Classic: Presenting The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green With A New Movement

With H. Moser & Cie.’s signature fumé dial in a rich verdant hue, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green timepiece, powered by a new, updated movement, exemplifies the brand’s mastery over minimalism with both aesthetics and mechanics

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It is fairly apparent now that green dials are here to stay, with hues varying from a happy lime on the verge of yellow, to a calming, deep forest green, and every shade in between, on the spectrum. Choosing a watch, then, is about the shade that appeals to the buyer. That, and the movement that powers the timepiece. Picking up on this trend, H. Moser & Cie. recently released a timeless classic, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green, with their signature fumé dial in green, powered by an updated movement. “The HMC 201 is an upgrade from the HMC 200. It is more skeletonised, and a more modern movement,” H. Moser’s CEO Edouard Meylan told The Watch Guide in an interview recently. Indeed, the HMC 201 is a beauty to behold when one turns the Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green timepiece over, and admiring the movement ticking away through the open caseback is quite a relaxing exercise. The minimal dial, in equally soothing shades of green, has the added ability to complement just about any outfit.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green Minimal Watches
The minimal dial of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green timepiece in soothing shades of green has the ability to complement just about any outfit

Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green: Meet The New Calibre

First released in 2015, the Pioneer Centre Seconds is a versatile sports watch designed for both the outdoors and the boardroom. Initially sized at 42.8mm, at the behest of collectors, Moser also released a more ergonomic 40mm version that was very well received. Water-resistant to 120m, the watch is tougher than several other luxury sport watches, and is extremely adaptable in the event of a more formal setting. The brand followed their blue dial version with the 2024 Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green timepiece in a 40mm case with an updated movement. The case features a multi-part construction with brushed and polished finishing. A domed sapphire crystal glass sits over the dial, and a sapphire crystal window on the caseback displays the new movement within.

Featuring an automatic bidirectional pawl winding system that winds the watch with the movement of the wearer’s wrist, the HMC 201 beats at a frequency of 21,600vph, and offers a minimum power reserve of three days. What’s special about this movement is the ‘hacking seconds’ mechanism that allows for more accurate time setting.

The Watch Guide

H. Moser followed their blue dial version of the Pioneer Centre Seconds watch with the 2024 Cosmic Green timepiece in a 40mm case with an updated movement

The Watch Guide

The HMC 201 is an upgrade from the HMC 200. It is more skeletonised, and a more modern movement,” says H. Moser’s CEO Edouard Meylan

Besides being highly functional, accurate, and anti-magnetic, the HMC 201 calibre is also decorated beautifully. Bridges have been partially skeletonised, and the rotor has been re-designed to offer an almost unobstructed view of the gears within.

The Verdant Dial Of The Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green

On the dial of the Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green timepiece, a rich emerald hue at the centre darkens to almost black around the periphery. Sunray brushing on the green watch face gives it a radiant, almost glowing quality, especially when shifting light hits the dial. Luminous dot markers on the flange ring coincide with faceted rhodium-plated indexes applied onto the darkest part of the dial. Skeletonised leaf-shaped hands that are partially filled with Super-LumiNova enhance not only the elegance but also the legibility of the watch. A hacking central seconds hand is shaped like a sewing needle, an element that further alleviates the sophistication of this ruggedly cool timepiece. Sharp contrasts and lume on the markers and hands make for easy time-telling, even in low light.

The Watch Guide
Luminous dot markers on the flange ring coincide with facetted rhodium-plated indexes applied onto the darkest part of the dial. Skeletonised leaf-shaped hands partially filled with Super-LumiNova enhance not only the elegance but also the legibility of the watch

A telling example of Moser’s minimalism is the brand name lacquered onto the dial. This means that the Moser signature is only visible when light reflects against it, and otherwise sits inconspicuously against the hues of the dial.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green Minimal Watches
A telling example of Moser’s minimalism is the brand name lacquered onto the dial, visible when light reflects against it

The green of the dial is best complemented by a perforated black rubber strap that heightens the sportiness of the timepiece. Alternately, the watch can be paired with textile, alligator leather or a steel bracelet—options that enhance the versatility of the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Cosmic Green. Whether outdoors or at the office, this timepiece blends with any environment—its refined luxury obvious, even if the brand’s signature isn’t.

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