SpotlightGirard-Perregaux Launches A Galaxy Of Haute Horlogerie Masterpieces At SIHH 2019

Girard-Perregaux is a 200-year-old, storied brand with a history of innovation and elegance behind it. Even if you’ve been into watches, chances are, you still may not know that they have some landmark horological breakthroughs to their credit, such as the first high-beat 5Hz movement in the 1960s, pioneering high-frequency quartz movements in the 1970s and more recently, introducing the first true constant force escapement in 2008. That’s the kind of under-the-radar vibe they play with. The big change in this came with the reboot of their Laureato line-up between 2016 and 2017, that brought them into the luxury-sports-watch limelight.

Even at SIHH 2019, it’s the Laureato that receives special attention, apart from a mechanical mind-boggler, which is de rigeur at the Geneva salon.

Bridges Cosmos

An abundance of overtly complex releases at a place like SIHH could perhaps leave one a bit immune to tourbillons, open-worked movements and the like, but there’s a romance to globes on a watch dial that grabs attention like nothing else. That, precisely, is the allure of GP’s Bridges Cosmos. Housed in a mammoth 48mm, titanium bead-blasted case, the highlights of the watch are two 3D globes – one of the earth and another representing a sky-chart that is customisable for each owner. The thinking behind these two adjacent globes, made of titanium and laser engraved, is the duality of one being the view of the earth from the sky, and the other of the sky from the earth. The globes have also been coated with luminous materials for a brilliant glow in the dark.

Housed in a mammoth 48mm, titanium bead-blasted case, the highlights of the watch are two 3D globes—one of the earth and another representing a sky-chart that is customisable for each owner

The thinking behind these two adjacent globes, made of titanium and laser engraved, is the duality of one being the view of the earth from the sky, and the other of the sky from the earth

The sky chart rotates once every sidereal day, which is about 4 minutes less than the 24 hour day we follow. The terrestrial globe, on the other hand, provides a day-night indication for the local time zone has a 24-hour ring around it to display the second timezone. The Cosmos has no crown and setting of time and functions needs to be done through 4 keys on the back of the watch. The timepiece is regulated by a tourbillon secured on a titanium bridge, having an element of resemblance with the iconic 3 golden bridge tourbillon from the brand. Once you are done marvelling at all the excellence of the Cosmos, the time can be read in a small dial at 12 o’ clock.

Laureato Absolute

The first Laureato goes all the way back to 1975 when it was introduced as a quartz powered, slim watch during times when quartz technology had disrupted mechanical timekeeping. The integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel are elements of the original, integral to what makes the Laureato. At the same time, those design traits lend themselves well to experimentation with a variety of colours, complications and materials.

This year, Girard-Perregaux has taken that basic framework and introduced three new Laureato models in 44mm PVD coated titanium cases that are water resistant to 300m. The blacked out cases are paired with stitched black rubber straps that integrate seamlessly with the lugs. There is a time and date model, a world timer and a chronograph; all with in-house automatic movements.

The dials are the main story here. While the standard Laureato collection has hobnail dials, the Absolute collection comes with sunburst blue dials that become almost black close to the chapter ring. Blue references the sky and black, the universe. The construction of the dials is two-layered; the blue layer with cut-outs for indexes and complications is placed on top of a black layer, providing them with, both, depth and texture for visual distinction.

The Laureato Absolute watches are substantially sized at 44mm, but the titanium makes them light, while the black PVD tends to make them wear a bit smaller while offering a dark, distinctive look. These are both nice touches by GP to enhance the wearability of the watch without compromising on its wrist presence.

Cat’s Eye

The Cat’s Eye ladies collection from Girard-Perregaux is identified by its elliptical, diamond set cases. Some come with complications, but each of them has mechanical movements that are hand-finished with Geneva stripes, graining and bevelling, making them pieces of art in their own right.

The most charming thing about the Plum Blossom watch is the lovely, little plum blossom flower on the dial that is also the seconds hand

It is offered in a steel case with mother of pearl dial or pink gold case with an aventurine glass dial

The Plum Blossom is a new line-up of watches added to the collection. The most charming thing about this watch is the lovely, little plum blossom flower on the dial that is also the seconds hand. This visual signature gives the dial a pleasing calmness. It is offered in a steel case with mother of pearl dial or pink gold case with an aventurine glass dial. Each of them is set with 62 diamonds.

The Cat’s Eye Tourbillon has an aventurine dial as well but goes a step further in its complexity and brilliance. The baguette diamonds on the shimmering dial evoke shooting stars across a night sky. In all, the watch is set with 98 diamonds having a weight of 6.2 ct. The addition of a tourbillon to this magnificent piece, a true rarity in a ladies watch, brings together the highest level of gem-setting and watchmaking.

1966

A Girard-Perregaux round-up wouldn’t be complete without a simple and handsome watch. The 149-piece 1966 Earth to Sky limited edition recalls the blue sunburst dial seen in the Laureato Absolute collection but is now in a watch where the gradient and play of colour are more evident and undisturbed. The 1966 is the line of classics from GP, and it now sees the addition of a black DLC coated, 40mm steel case for something that may be a little off-beat for the collection but is very smart and versatile. A different kind of head-turner.

Girard-Perregaux has a lot of in-house watchmaking prowess across disciplines that are on display at the SIHH. From complex to beautiful to sporty, it’s all well represented in their new releases; connected with an underlying thread of elegance that we’ve come to expect from the brand.

Amish Behl is India’s first Watch Expert, certified by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), Switzerland. He is a watch specialist and collector based in New Delhi, deeply passionate about the art and history of timekeeping. Behl is also the founder of Definitely Curry, a digital publication about modern ‘made in India’.