Q&AOf Resurrection, Renaissance, And Resurgence: Favre Leuba’s Chief On The Historic Brand’s Revival

Favre Leuba are the world’s second oldest watch brand with a rich legacy—what are the pros and cons of being in that league and how are you planning on leveraging that?

I think the biggest advantage is the legacy of Favre Leuba. However, the greatest challenge was to choose the models that would carry forward this legacy because the history of the brand is so rich and vast. So, we have taken into account the history of Favre Leuba from the time when the quartz crisis hit the watch industry. And it’s a huge responsibility because when you have a brand with such a rich heritage, you want to ensure to nurture it in order to revive and to continue to build on it.

Some would say that despite boasting such a rich legacy, Favre Leuba haven’t been lucky enough to stay afloat… Titan bought the brand in 2011 and in 2016 officially announced the return, still they weren’t successful. What is your strategy to overcome this challenge?

We will succeed because of the value proposition that we are offering. We have an active collection and our products are all ‘wearable’ and not just bulky instruments, which you cannot wear. The market is ripe for what we want to achieve since today’s consumer does their research. They want to see what they are buying, who is behind the brand, and the history and the DNA of the brand… I think it’s more important today than it was five or ten years ago. The customers want to have their money’s worth.

A lot of brands are revisiting their vintage models from the 1960s and presenting them to suit a contemporary audience—most of them ranging within 37mm and 40mm. We have noticed a similar trajectory with the new Favre Leuba watches? Is this a conscious decision?

I think that was the idea somewhere but when you look at the collection, there are only some revival pieces—the Deep Blue from 1964 being an important one for us. For us, it’s a renaissance and a real evolution of what was done in the past. We are not just relying on reviving retro pieces as they were because we have to think long-term and want to be very strong in the next 10 years. So, taking that route wouldn’t have worked for us.

What is the highlight for the brand?

The focus is on the Chief collection because most of the design effort went into that. It is also a line that was launched with two different movements, right from the very beginning. The Deep Blue is a result of the 60th anniversary and we wanted to promote it during the launch to make the right noise.

Favre Leuba Chief Explore The Collection

Will we see smaller renditions of the Bivouac and Bathy considering the brand is known for these timepieces?

The Bivouac is very close to my heart and you will see it in the original version from 1962, which was about 15.5mm thick. With a very attractive diameter, we will have to build something that retains the original DNA but is much more wearable.

"The Deep Blue is a result of the 60th anniversary and we wanted to promote it during the launch to make the right noise"

The Deep Blue Revival is anchored in the brand’s nautical heritage and embraces the 39mm dimension of the original. This moderate size at once feels retro and sizeable on the wrist

Favre Leuba Deep Blue

₹2,20,000

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You have helmed iconic brands in the past? What do you think will be your biggest challenge at Favre Leuba? 

Well, there are two challenges. The first challenge is for me personally since my reputation is out there. So, I want to make sure we are successful. The second thing is…time. The success will be there, and there’s no doubt about it but it might take a bit longer than what we anticipate.

Who is the target audience for a revamped Favre Leuba?

It’s never easy to say. I think a Favre Leuba timepiece might not be a consumer’s first watch but we are sure to find favour with collectors. At the end of the day, we are looking at people who enjoy wearing fine timepieces and our value proposition.

Currently, the market is shifting more towards unisex timepieces. A lot of brands have found that sweet spot between 38mm and 40mm. Do you think women will also be attracted to the new watches?

When you look at the collection, the Deep Blue Revival is 39mm, the Chief Date is 40mm—both quite wearable for ladies. In the past, Favre Leuba had some very attractive timepieces for women. So, a dedicated ladies’ collection is part of our future, which will be an important pillar for the brand.

Are there any particular markets that you’re expecting to fare better as compared to the others?

For the next nine to 12 months, we will be focusing on the United States, Central Europe, India for sure, Middle East, and Japan.

Seen here is the Favre Leuba Sea Sky Revival in blue, which is an embodiment of precision, sophistication, and a nod to the spirit of adventure

₹3,80,000

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It features a proportionate 40mm size, offering elevated comfort and a seamless wrist presence for constant outdoor use

₹3,80,000

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The classic dial of the Sea Sky Revival carries pleasing vintage aesthetics with an understated matte finish, complemented by retro-inspired index hour markers and faceted hands

₹3,80,000

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What are your thoughts on the current state of the Swiss luxury watch industry?

At the moment the market is on the slowdown and a lot of it has to do with the impact of China. However, if you look at the trend over the last 10 to 12 years or even 20 years, it’s an upside trend. We have had an increase in export and production over the last four years, so the demand for luxury watches will continue to go up.

Do you see independent brands commanding a more prominent stronghold?

I think they do. But we have to be realistic and when one looks at the overall picture, it’s still a small market. If you think about an export of CHF 27 billion and you factor in some of these micro brands or boutique brands that produce 150 pieces, 300 pieces, or even 500 pieces annually, it means nothing. But it means a lot in terms of innovation, new ideas, and creativity—a very important part of the business.