Q&ACarl F. Bucherer Ups Its Game With The Next-Level Peripheral
The brand’s executive vice president for product development, Kurt Allemann shares the Lucerne-based watch manufacturer’s approach as they brought the tourbillon into the periphery of the Manero Peripheral – one of the brand’s flagship series
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How would you describe Carl F. Bucherer’s latest highlight?
In the meaningful year 2018, we are celebrating our 130th anniversary, with a range of novelties and collections that are inspired by our precious heritage and our traditional past. At this year’s Baselworld, we presented our latest in-house calibre: the movement CFB T3000. It is the heart of the new Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral, a timepiece that combines – for the first time in watchmaking – a peripheral-rotor automatic winding system with a ‘floating’ peripherally-mounted tourbillon. Reflecting tradition, innovation and the best quality, the technically advanced watch comes in a timelessly-beautiful, elegant look.
According to you, what are the most prominent current trends in watches?
In the last 20 years, developments have shown that mechanical watches are becoming more and more popular. The market share of mechanical watches is steadily growing. Especially high-quality products are greatly appreciated; for example, Swiss timepieces that ensure the highest watchmaking skills.
The smartwatch is getting increasingly popular even among luxury brands. Can we expect one from Carl F. Bucherer anytime soon?
We follow the development of smartwatches very closely and stay in touch with experts on the technical front. But, I believe our customers would be disappointed if we came up with a smartwatch at this point in time. They are not what Carl F. Bucherer stands for today.
What’s it like developing a product at Carl F. Bucherer while adhering to the brand’s guidelines?
When we draft a concept, we discuss it very openly within the team. In this creative process, every idea or inspiration is welcome. Everybody in our brand – including the designers – works together. There is a lot of communication between departments. We are always open to new and innovative approaches, but they need to go well with our philosophy so that our brand remains authentic.
Which collection do you cherish the most?
I enjoy every single watch of our collections and also working on them – from classic types such as the Manero models to technically advanced Patravi watches. I particularly enjoy creating beautiful ladies’ watches and jewellery timepieces.
When it comes to incorporating complications into the design, how do you do justice to both aspects, especially with skeletonised parts of the display?
When the management makes the decision to build a new movement, I am involved in the discussions to decide, along with the others, in which family of watches it is going to find its place. At this stage, I already have a vision of a possible design. Just to give you an idea of the temporal dimension: it took us four years to develop the new tourbillon.
What’s the craziest idea you’ve had working for Carl F. Bucherer?
I will keep that as a secret.
Is it still to come? Can we expect it anytime soon?
Time will tell. When people ask me what favourite watch is, I always answer that it is the next to come.
