ReviewHands on Review – The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Power Reserve 2017

The Manero collection since 2013 has seen Carl F. Bucherer’s most diverse offerings in terms of complications. But despite its ‘complex diversity’, they have mostly been available in traditional watch colours, i.e., gold, white gold, silver or black dials. Of course, this doesn’t just apply to Bucherer watches, almost all watches today have traditional dial colours and there is nothing wrong with that! But there’s nothing wrong with spicing up the collection with some bright colours either, right?

Baselworld 2017 saw Carl F. Bucherer’s willingness to do something out of the box (which was very unlike the Swiss brand).  They announced two new limited edition variants of the Manero PowerReseve model in Midnight Blue and Pine Green variants. I’m going to refer to them as Mr. Blue and Mr. Green through this post (to avoid any confusion). But keeping the vivid colours aside, the new Manero PowerReserve in comparison to its old model is now more a powerful, a lot more intricately designed and an extremely reliable watch in terms of its new movement. Combine that with calfskin straps matching the dial colours, and you have an irresistible combination for the fashion-conscious watch buff. It’s the perfect mix of style and substance and you’ll agree with me as we read on further about this new watch:

Colours come to the Manero:

The decision to make desirable new colour versions of the Manero was an unexpected surprise, but was well received both by watch connoisseurs and fashionistas alike. In Bucherer’s defense, gone are the days where someone would have to settle for a black or silver dial. The inclusion of vivid new colours adds yet another new chapter in the watchmaking industry, i.e., plain dials are a thing of the past. Eye-pleasing, brain-stimulating fresh design and versatility is what people want and Bucherer wanted a head start in the upcoming trend.

Case and Dial of the Manero Power Reserve:

As I mentioned in the beginning, the stainless steel case of the new watch is a lot more intricately designed as compared to the first Manero – beautifully finished with alternating polished and brushed surfaces. The rounded lugs add to the comfort on the wrist. No complaints whatsoever with the case construction. But to be honest, the dial design had to grow on me. It looked way too busy to me on the first day.

The uniqueness of the dial came to my notice in bright light conditions – the difference in angles shows different textures and colour tones, varying from blue to dark black and green to grey, this is something which took me by surprise because I had not seen (or expected) this kind of play from Bucherer. The shades vary from a deep colour on the edge to a brilliant light colour in the center. This soft ‘dégradé colour’ dial was done by an extremely intricate process which I’d say has been executed really well by Bucherer!

The rounded outlines around the day and date make them easy to read. The Dauphine hands are on the thick side, but I guess all these details are a matter of taste. The dial is classic, balanced, and easily readable, and the longer I had the watch on the wrist, I liked it more and more.

Vivid Calfskin Straps:

The strap is what one would expect from Bucherer – genuine stitched calfskin leather of the highest quality. The new strap is stiff in the beginning but whoever has owned a calfskin strap before will know that the strap gets more and more comfortable as it ages. The straps match with the colour of the dial, green or blue for Mr. Green and Mr. Blue respectively.

The strap is secured with a double pin lock folding clasp, featuring the logo of Carl F. Bucherer. The size of the clasp is perfect, not like some other clasps that fold all the way to the side of my wrist.

The Improved In-house movement:

The centerpiece of this watch is the CFB A1011 caliber automatic movement. The Manero today is leaps ahead of its first edition in terms of movement, thanks to the brand’s acquisition of Techniques Horlogères Appliquées SA – who are specialists in movement development. This was not just a major boost to Bucherer’s ‘in-house’ movement aspirations, but they now have the freedom to build a reliable movement around a watch and not the other way round.

The Manero, known for its peripheral oscillating movement (that winds in both directions) is present on this watch as well. Caliber CFB A1011, operating with 33 jewels now offers an improved power-reserve of 55 hours or more than two full days – when fully wound. The remaining power reserve is shown in a semi-circular display at 3 o’clock.

“The Manero PowerReserve makes a statement on time and its course.”

Price and Availability:

Mr. Green and Mr. Blue are priced at INR 6,61,000 in India. For a 188-piece limited edition, this one’s definitely a keeper (if you’re lucky enough to get hold of one) and certainly one to hold on to, for the future.

Both watches can be reserved exclusively in India at Ethos Watch Boutiques.

(Image Courtesy: Carl F. Bucherer, A Gentleman’s World and Lips Brothers)