SpotlightBreitling’s New Look At Baselworld 2018 – A Contemporary Throwback To The Past

The internet has been buzzing with views and comments on the new Breitling Navitimer 8 watches, ever since images of the addition to the brand’s signature line were released. The Navitimer looks significantly different from what we’ve known it to be in recent years, and everyone has taken notice. It turns out that the new look of the Navitimer is actually not a drastic change in the visual identity of the series, but is, in fact, a reminder of what the brand used to be before the 1970s.

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The Origins Of The New Navitimer 8

“The Navitimer 8 really is more like a prequel to the Navitimer 1, with strong references to the designs of the aviation watches from 1930 to 1970,” informs Guy Bove, the new creative director of Breitling. “Aviation watches from the 1930s didn’t have the slide rule that is such a prominent feature of the Navitimer 1.” It’s the slide rule on the inner bezel – or edges of the dial, if you will – that makes all the difference between the appearance of a Navitimer 1 and a Navitimer 8. “The Navitimer 8 is actually inspired directly from old cockpit clocks, which had cleaner dials,” adds Bove. “That was when the slide rule didn’t exist. So in a way, the 8 is a strong reflection of a simpler time.”

Besides the obvious elements that make it different from the Navitimer 1, the new series of pilot’s watches features subtle elements that are all a part of the evolving identity of Breitling. “In the chronograph version, the dial design now makes it clear whether the watch features an in-house Breitling caliber, or a purchased caliber,” Bove mentions. “The contrast between the colours of the main dial and the sub-dials indicates that the watch has a Breitling movement.” In this case, the movement is the Breitling B01 calibre. “Going forward, all watches with contrasting sub-dials and a polished bezel will be an indicator of a manufacture movement,” declares Bove.

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“In the three-hand version, the date at six o’clock is on a disc that’s the same colour of the dial, as we believe that the wearer who chooses this version would probably not want distraction in the form of a date window,” Bove says. “On the Day-Date version, there is more contrast between the dial and the day and date discs.” The Navitimer 8 includes versions in gold, steel, and steel with black DLC treatment.

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Other Updates From Breitling

Fans of the Navitimer 1, who wouldn’t want to deviate from the solid Breitling characteristics can also have what they love, since the series is still very much a part of the brand’s offering. The updated Navitimer 1 watches feature minor changes, as the new edition also streamlines its offerings with fewer variations to make a stronger impression. On the other hand, Breitling’s novelties this year also includes the new Super 8, a generously sized watch with an oversized bezel. “It measures 50mm, end to end, but the actual size of the case [under the bezel] is about 47mm.”

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While the new Navitimer 8 draws inspiration from the past and presents a very contemporary look, this is actually the first in many changes that Breitling is about to go through, as part of an evolution that will reinforce the brand’s identity.

We’ll be giving you all the details on Breitling’s way forward, with the complete conversation I had with Guy Bove – coming soon on The Watch Guide. Tell us in the comment section below which Breitling watch appealed to you the most?  Follow us here as we get you the latest goings-on from the last two days of the fair