ReviewHands on: The Baume & Mercier Complete Calendar with Chronograph & Moon-phase

A complete calendar watch is a mechanical watch that displays the day, date and month and requires minimal adjustment. The complication automatically adjusts the date displayed on the timepiece based on 30 and 31-day months to ensure that the correct date is always displayed. This complication requires setting the date only once per year, at the end of February. It also displays the phase of the moon. And in the case of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Complete Calendar, it also beautifully integrates a chronograph.

The watch beautifully balances a triple layered dial with three sub-dials and 8 hands that work together effortlessly to form the complete calendar. The case is 43 mm with a see-through case back that gives the wearer a chance to see its highly decorated movement. The watch is visually well balanced and never overwhelms the users despite its plethora of complications. It is in this balance of beauty and engineering marvel that Baume & Mercier truly shines. Let’s discover more in depth about the watch:

The most awaited SIHH novelty of 2016 – why?

The Clifton Complete Calendar by Baume & Mercier won many hearts at SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie Genève), earlier this year. Destined for enlightened amateurs and watchmaking connoisseurs alike, the Clifton revealed a new facet of the line with a unique complication, the “Chronographe Calendrier Complet.”

Baume & Mercier belongs to the Richemont Group & Richemont group owns brands like Panerai, IWC, A. Lange & Söhne to name a few. An annual calendar complete with day, date, month, moon phase and a chronograph would typically take the bill of such a watch to well above $15,000. However, Baume & Mercier introduced this stunning watch at around $5,200 which made it very attractive. With its legacy of creating high-quality watches for over 128 years, connoisseurs knew they couldn’t go wrong with this timepiece. It was sold out almost immediately around the world.

Eight hands of the Clifton:

Yes, the Clifton Complete Calendar has no less than 8 hands. These sword-shaped hands give you the indications of the time, complete calendar, and the chronograph. The layout remains quite clear and cleverly executed, thanks to the different colours used for the indications. The silver hands indicate the hours, minutes and seconds. The central hand for the date is also in silver with a red tip. The 24-hour scale (in the sub-dial at 9) comes with a gilded hand. In the case of the second variation within this collection (Clifton 10279), all hands are gilded, except for the 24-hour indicator, which is in silver. All chronograph functions for the watch are highlighted by blue-steel hands, which sets it apart from the rest of the indications mentioned above. The chronograph seconds are on the central axis with a long blued hand, the 30-minute counter is at 12 and the 12-hour counter is at 6 (circling the moon-phase).

Housing all the hands gorgeously is a silver satin finished dial with applique numerals and indexes in silver and gild.

At 6 o’clock: The moon-phase indicator and 12-hour chronograph counter

Let’s elaborate on the working of the calendar and chronograph now. Starting clockwise, we first come to the sub-dial at 6 o’clock which houses the 12-hour counter for the chronograph and the moon-phase indicator.

The 12-hour counter is marked with a blue hand. All hands used in the chronograph function are blue in colour. The moon phase is an indicator that keeps track of the phases of the moon. A regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.9 seconds. Once set, the moon phase indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon. This moon phase disk displays the current phase of the lunar cycle which is depicted by a beautiful midnight blue coloured disc featuring the moon in a mystic golden hue.

At 9 o’clock: Day & night indicator with a 24-hour scale and small second counter

The sub-dial at 9 again has two indicative functions – the small seconds, depicted by the silver hand, and a day and night indicator represented by a 24-hour scale. The small seconds hand indicates the seconds of the local time. The hand for the 24-hour scale which acts as the day and night indicator is in gold. This differentiates it from the other hands and avoids confusion for the wearer. The two indications (small seconds and 24-hour scale) are further divided by a concentric circle within the sub-dial, which improves legibility.

At 12 o’clock: Date month and 30-minute chronograph counter

Coming to the last sub-dial at 12 o’clock, you can see 2 windows here, which indicate the annual calendar displaying the day of the week and the month along with the 30-minute counter of the chronograph (denoted by a blue hand). The two windows for day and month are bevelled and appropriately placed at 12 o’clock for easy readability.

The 43mm satin-finish stainless steel case

The satin finish stainless steel case has an imposing diameter of 43 mm (thickness is 12 mm) and maintains the typical lines of the Clifton collection, inspired by the Golden Fifties models held in the Baume & Mercier museum. It offers a water resistance of 5 ATM (approximately 50 metres). The domed sapphire crystal adds depth to the case. Shaped elegantly like the rest of the Clifton collection, this stainless steel case is brushed on the bezel and the sides and features a nice chamfer that runs on the sides of the watch, from one lug to another. The Phi logo engraved on the crown, stands out well.

Beautiful see-through caseback

The caseback of any watch is an artistic creation in itself and the Clifton Complete Calendar comes with a gorgeous sapphire crystal caseback. Visible through it is the movement along with an engraved rotor, adorned with Geneva stripes, blue screws and perlage on the main plate and bridges. Surrounding the sapphire crystal is stainless steel which has a soothing effect on the eyes. The name of the watch is engraved on the caseback along with the water resistance.

Performing engine: The movement

Making the watch tick effortlessly, given its super efficient 6 functions, is the powerful self-winding Valjoux 7751 beating at 28,800 vph and offering a power reserve of 48 hours. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is an array of Haute Horlogerie finishes, including snailed patterns and Côtes de Genève on the rotor, perlage on the bridges and plates, classically blued screws and the Phi logo.

For the perfect fit – Alligator leather strap and steel bracelet

Ensuring the perfect fit for these glorious timepieces are two variations:

Alligator leather strap: Available with the Clifton 10278, the black alligator leather strap comes with a folding clasp, thus adding the final fitting touch to the watch.

Steel bracelet – This steel satin finished bracelet comes with a triple folding clasp along with security push-pieces. Available with the Clifton 10279, the bracelet provides a comfortable fit especially with formal attire.

All Baume & Mercier watches are crafted and assembled by hand in Switzerland

Yes, you read that right. Each and every Baume & Mercier watch is carefully assembled by hand and checked for the slightest flaw. Also, each watch boasts of decent water-resistance, scratch-resistance, and an exemplary movement.

You can discover the Clifton and the entire Baume & Mercier collection at Ethos here.