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Round-UpThrough a loupe – 4 Most Collectible Watches To Own Now!

Each timepiece with its own story, own style

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Trust me when I say this, the phrase “collectible watches” is thrown around a lot these days. The very definition of collector’s watches or collectible watches has lost its true value and meaning in the impervious bubble of branding and marketing. What does it mean? What does it signify? I could never quite make up my mind. I was confused, enthralled and borderline frustrated. Then…like a bolt of lighting (or much rather a basic question), it struck me!

This happened when I was researching for this particular story, I had visited our Ethos store at SelectCityWalk, New Delhi to look at some prospective candidates for the article. There I came across this one particular watch and I was immediately taken by it. So much so, that when my colleague (who was “accompanying” me to the store) asked me what time it was, I had to check the watch again because strangely, all the while I was looking at the watch, I was drawn to focus on the other facets of the watch, instead of checking out the time! So as far as I am concerned, if a watch is so beautiful and technically superb that it makes me forget to notice the time on the watch (which is a watch’s core use, right?), then I have found my collector’s timepiece. But hey, that’s just me!

A true connoisseur's choice!
A true connoisseur’s choice – Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio

To be fair, there are some avid collectors who are probably the last people on Earth who actually need to know the time. Every collector has their personal notion of a collectors timepiece, their individual criteria of deeming a watch worthy of being included in their collection. So, without further ado, here is a list of four collector timepieces searched, researched and brought together just for you, keeping in mind the preferences of new and serious watch collectors.

1. Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio

Before we get to the watch, let us first take a moment to talk about the brand – Panerai. A brand that does not necessarily conform to rules and trends but makes it a point to stay loyal to its rich history and tradition. Their historical connection to the Royal Italian Navy still inspires the contemporary design and mechanics of their collections. The fact that Panerai was only available to civilians after 1990 makes it even more interesting.

A Royal Italian Navy inspired timepiece
Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio takes its inspiration from the Royal Italian Navy

The Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve is a watch that looks aesthetically classic. With the signature large cushion case and highly legible and simple dial with the popular flexible assortment of straps, the Panerai Luminor 1950 discussed here is a true classic.With a 42mm case diameter, the cushion shaped case is formed from a solid block of polished stainless steel. Clocking in a power reserve of three days, the watch is powered by an automatic mechanical in-house Panerai P.9002 calibre movement. Apart from the usual functions, the watch also offers a GMT and power reserve indicator complication with a seconds reset.

Panerai luminescent provides the watch with utmost legibility, day or night

But the most amazing part of the watch is its amazing legibility. A feature that Panerai is famous for, the watch simply shines through irrespective of its charge, offering spectacular legibility, day or night; courtesy the sandwich dial construction which inculcates filling the hour markers and hands with Panerai luminescent. The black dial is decorated with Paris hobnails that enhance the watch’s aesthetic. A domed shaped sapphire crystal and trademark Panerai font aids in providing legibility through and through.

A see-through case back that enables the wearer to see the intricate workings of the movement
The see-through case back enables the wearer to see the intricate workings of the watch

With a water resistance of up to 100 metres, the watch is available in a calf assolutamente (absolutely), dark brown leather strap. If defying the raging trends of the world is your cup of tea, the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve is your kind of watch. With a watch like this, turning into a Panerai loyalist, also known as Paneristis, could very well be a possibility!

2. IWC Portofino Automatic

An IWC is a serious collector’s choice and there is no doubt to that. It has engineered one of the best instruments among which the Portofino collection is one of them; its humble beginnings date back to the early 1980s. One of IWC’s most collectable timepieces, in terms of its classic design and technical innovation, the Portofino Automatic does not disappoint.

A timeless timepiece that befits any watch collector's collection
A timeless watch that befits any watch collector’s collection

Many may argue that the Portofino is not the most aesthetically designed watches from IWC.  Truth be told, there are many other options to choose from, like the Portuguieser, Aquatimer family, but the Portfino’s strength lies in its simplistic design and appeal. The IWC Portifino Automatic originated from a simple time when a good-looking watch drew credibility from a good name on the dial.

Offering timeless designs , the dial of the watch is uncluttered and simple creating more avenues of marvel
Offering a timeless design, the dial of the watch is uncluttered and simple creating more avenues of marvel

A timeless design surpassing short-term fashion trends, I assure you, this is one watch that will last you a lifetime. It resonates timelessness boasting a vintage-inspired, uncluttered dial for better clarity. With three hands and a subtle placement of a date display, the Portofino resonates timeless classic with a good taste. With a dash of red on the 60 at 12 o’clock, the rest of the dial is based on neutral tones of silver.

The three hands and a subtle placement of a date display allows the Portofino to look like a timeless classic with a good taste.
The three hands and a subtle placement of the date display allows the Portofino to look like a timeless classic with a good taste.

Technically astounding, the watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement of 35111 calibre which provides a 42-hour long power reserve when fully wound. The watch is available in a stainless steel case with a silver-plated dial and black alligator leather strap. A combination that resonates a classic and elegant watch. A true dress watch, the Portofino is a perfect companion that will easily pass off as a daily wear watch. What more could one ask for? If you want a watch that will stay in style forever, the IWC Portofino is the way to go. It provides you with something that is priceless- a watch that never goes out of style!

The dash of red at the top of 12 o’ clock adds a hint of colour to an otherwise monochrome timepiece
The dash of red on 60, above 12 o’clock adds a hint of colour to an otherwise monochrome timepiece

3. Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface

You can never go wrong with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. It is, if not the most, but one of the most iconic timepieces of all time and including one in your collection is a no-brainer. Placed on high preference in any watch collector’s list, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has undergone many changes but still retains it’s classic charm and respect.

An iconic timepiece in the world of Haute Horlogerie
An iconic timepiece in the world of Haute Horlogerie

The Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface is one of the collection’s most attractive and iconic timepieces. A dual faced watch with two dials, clocking two time zones powered by one movement is a watch that needs to be spoken about. Popularly known as the “Reverso Duo” the watch has been slimmed down by over 1mm making it look much smarter and more elegant.

The back dial features a second time zone with day and night indicators along with a 24-hour display function.
The black dial features a second time zone with day and night indicators along with a 24-hour display function.
One of the two dials dedicated to the original 1931 Reverso without the brand name
One of the two dials is dedicated to the original 1931 Reverso without the brand name

The two dials of the Reverso have also been planned exceptionally with one side (front side) dedicated to the 1931 version of the watch minus the brand name, and the other side (back side) resembles the previous version of the Reverso Duo. The front one features a silver dial with black transferred hour-markers. It offers an hour, minute and seconds function. The back dial features a second time zone with day and night indicators along with a 24-hour display function. It is made of a black, velvety Clous de Paris guilloché with white transferred hour-markers. Created in the 1930s to provide convenience to polo players, the Reverso is a true example of timeless design and geometric silhouettes.

This mechanical movement with manual winding that powers the two dials on the watch
The mechanical movement with manual winding that powers the two dials on the watch, contains 180 parts and has a 45-hour power reserve
The Jaeger-LeCoultre GRANDE REVERSO ULTRA THIN DUOFACE is a smart watch designed with elegance and style
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface is a smart watch designed with elegance and style

The pusher on the side entails easy adjustment of the hour hand for a second-time-zone. Powered by one (yes you heard it, one) mechanical manual wind movement, Calibre 854/1, the watch is pure joy on the wrist. With the option of wearing two completely different dials with dual time zones, the Jaeger-LeCoultre is an awesome piece of Haute Horlogerie.

4. Seamaster Diver 300m Co-Axial Chronograph

A watch that took my breath away, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Co-Axial Chronograph is a watch to die for. Omega is a brand that has, since its inception, produced classic timepieces that are visually beautiful and technically innovative. And the brand rarely (never actually) goes wrong when it comes to a divers’ watch. The Seamaster is one of Omega’s most popular collections.

The watch that will spice up any watch lover's collection- Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Co-axial Chronograph
A watch that will spice up any watch lover’s collection – Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Co-axial Chronograph

While there are many options to choose from, my personal favourite for a collector’s timepiece had to be the Seamaster Diver 300m Co-Axial Chronograph 300m ETNZ. The brand’s long affinity with the sea, led to the release of this new Seamaster model in celebration of their sponsorship of the America’s Cup ETNZ team (Emirates Team New Zealand).

A watch that was born to break free and dive into the many adventures that life has to offer
A watch that was born to break free and dive into the many adventures that life has to offer

While the design of the watch does not scream “collector’s timepiece”, but it does cater to a select few who would love to include some colour and variety into their classic and elegantly designed timepiece collection. The watch looks like it has been manufactured for adventure and outdoor activities. The “nautical” looking dial in a titanium case with a black rubber strap with a red inner lining is everything a sporty watch is supposed to look like. The red and black tones against the backdrop of a grey dial are in honor of the ETNZ racing colours.

The perfect combination of red and black tones against the backdrop of a grey dial were included to honor the ETNZ racing colours.
The perfect combination of red and black tones against the backdrop of a grey dial was included to honour the ETNZ racing colours

The watch comes in a 44mm wide titanium case which might sound big but sits perfectly on the wrist. The sand-blasted 5-grade titanium dial with applied indexes is coated with white Super-LumiNova that glows blue in the dark. The three sub-dials include a small-seconds at 9 o’ clock, a 12-hour recorder at 6 o’ clock and a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’ clock. The minute recorder also indicates a five-minute countdown to the start of a regatta. The matte black ceramic rotational bezel has a polished diving scale with a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.

The three sub-dials include a small-seconds at 9 o’ clock, a 12-hour recorder at 6 o’ clock and a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’ clock
The three sub-dials include a small-seconds at 9 o’clock, a 12-hour recorder at 6 o’clock and a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock

Equipped with an Omega Co-Axial Calibre 3330, a self-winding chronograph with a column wheel mechanism, co-axial escapement and an officially certified chronometer, the watch clocks in a power reserve of up to 52 hours. The Seamaster Diver 300M is definitely built for durability and top-notch performance as a tool watch but a touch of sporty fun colours has done the watch no harm too!

(Image courtesy: watchanish & hodinkee)

Which watches make the cut on your list of collector’s timepieces? What are your favourite timepieces? Have we missed any watches that deserves a place on the list? Let us know in the comments section below!

1 comments
  • Gary Alexander June 12, 2019 at 2:51 am

    would you be interested in brand new Luminor Ferenzi?

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